2.5" body drop

i am doing a body drop on a 89 b2200 reg cab and i have heard that you need to do a 2.5" body drop to be flush w/ the frame, i have set my 2x4's under the truck cut and folded over my pinch weld and i am only measuring 2 1/8" to be flush w/ the frame, i have my cab cut now and its sitting on the boards, i am just curious if i did not do something right, or if people are going a little below the frame? please help?

bro i had that same problem so what i did was cut my pich molds off and made sure that the rockers were strait on both sides droped the cab right on the ground and got it to were it was layed out on both sides and tachwelded it and made sure it was all good and then welded that bioch up and it was all good sofar i was happy with it i started with the 2x4 method and was getting the same thing so i said f%&k it and layed out on the ground

here's somthing you might want to consider,
if your not going to "Z" the frame then your not going to lay actual frame in the front because the front crossmember will keep your truck from doing that (unless it has been previously ....ahem..."filed down".
so if you do drop it level with the 2X4 then the rockers won't lay very well in the front.
the stock leif (or lief)spring hangers also lay below the the frame rail as doe's the main crossmember in the center of the truck.
so i think it's a good idea to drop it on the ground instead with a fresh front crossmember.
this is a problem i ran into.
my truck was bodydropped with a pre-FILED front crossmember.
the problem is whenever i replace it my rockers no longer lay as hard.

Laying the cab on a flat surface along with the frame is a good idea, but you can use boards don't pay attention to what someone says when they say, "it's supposed to be 2.5" to be flush with the frame" Because really, at what point are they measuring from? how did they measure that? who said, he said. you know what really matters is that the engineering is correct. Make it lay how you want on a flat surface if you can because that will really determine how the cab is going to sit anyway. You also have to think about weight to point ratios because the front of the cab is heavier and could sag when you bolt it all up and lift up the truck. If you don't have a flat surface put a piece of thick ass wood sheet on your 2x4's. hope my ramblings help

^^^^^ i agree with the ramblings.

Originally posted by maddawg



(unless it has been previously ....ahem..."filed down".

'filed' hahaha good shit there man

Good to know bout Z'ing the front frame or 2 file the front member down. Hope to be done by Slam Fest

So what is the maximum body drop that can be done and still be able to fit the engine under the hood! i want to go the max, and still have a little room so when i torque the engine it dont hit the hood!

don't miss understand me here guys,
what i was trying to say is...
let's see ...how should i put this....

in order to get the front of the frame trully flat on the ground ,that front crossmember has to be "filed" down almost halfway down into the nuts and bolts (which is not at all good unless your just going to lay your truck from that point on).
that's why i was suggesting to body drop it with a fresh crossmember first on a flat surface (of course cut it how you actually want it to lay first then drop it to the ground).
so at this point you will be laying/dragging rocker but you wont be trully dragging frame (cuz you'll be dragging crossmember).
but...if and when you decide to "Z" that frame then you'll be crushing that rocker hard.
of course the better way would have been to 'Z" first then b/d.
anyhow meybe i should have just answered "yes" the body is a little past the frame.
please correct me if i'm wrong guys.