Anyone a Marine Mechanic?

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Anyone a Marine Mechanic?
huskerdually avatar
huskerdually
+1y
Well first off it is a 2.0 ltr not a 3.

Usually they do just run cold without a thermostat, but I would put one in to be sure. Thermostat is a 129 degrees. My book is kinda goofy I think it opens at 153 degrees and closes between 124-133.

It does sound like your cooling system is working right, it just pulls water in from the lake, pumps it through the motor and spits it out the exhaust. One thing I've run into is rusted up exhaust manifolds, the water has to be able to get out also. But it sounds like you are getting good water flow out, but something to think about. Just sitting there with no airflow should not make any difference. And over 200 is to hot.

I would be worried it didn't have a thermostat, it means the previous owner was having an overheating problem also, and it looks like he gave up and sold it off.

I would be real surprised if you could run that engine lean enough to cause a problem.

I would like to know if it only gets hot idling around, speed the motor up and see if the temps come down, vice versa if it gets hot at higher rpms, if you idle it down will it cool off.

idle timing on that motor should be 12 btdc
idle speed 900-1000rpm
maximum rpm 5100
slammedyota91 avatar
slammedyota91
+1y
Thanks man, I tooke the valve cover and everything in there is all clean and looked sandblasted at some point (that clean) And the guy I got it from never used the boat and had gotten it on a trade from some supposed volvo mechanic who had rebuilt the motor.. everything is greased nice, the oil is fresh as could be. It gets to 210 idleing around and revving the motor. Not at a constant rev, but revving intermitantely. The thing is I cant rev past 12-1300 rpm on the water is starts bogging and missing really bad, So only out of water I can rev it, Next time its nice outside Ill go try it out keeping a steady rpm to see the temps, and show a video of the amount of water out of the exhaust and the temp gauge.. Thanks again!
huskerdually avatar
huskerdually
+1y
OK I didn't look back in the thread but it seems to me you have to separate issues, they may be related, maybe not.

Has it had a tune-up recently?

plugs should be a champion rl82cor ngk bp7hs or equivalent
spark plug gap, .028-.032
dwell 62 degrees plus/minus 3
point gap .016-.020
fuel pressure 3ish psi

it doesn't take any power to rev out of the water(be carefull, good way to send pieces of your motor all over). But under load it is missing(sounds like). How long has it sat? If it still has the problem after doing a proper tune up I would head into the carb, if it sat with fuel in it then some may have gummed up in there.

The reason I asked on the engine speed and cooling is those pumps work as a displacement pump at idle and a centrifugal pump at higher rpms. Getting hot at idle usually indicates a water pump problem, getting hot at upper rpms is usually something else. It sounds like your problem is a little different. Lmk on the tune up thing and we'll go from there.
slammedyota91 avatar
slammedyota91
+1y
Sweet, Ill check it out, You think 2000rpm is enough for the pump to act properly? Or should I take it to 3 grand? Ill check the dwell, too. I have been carefully reading the R and R manual. Thanks a lot for the help so far, Youre giving me some stuff to look at, I appreciate it man!
slammedyota91 avatar
slammedyota91
+1y
Oh as far as a tune up, Supposedly the guy before the guy I got it from rebuilt the engine. He then traded the boat to the guy I got it from for his Chevy pickup which had blown headgaskets (The guy who rebuilt it is an ex tweaker mechanic and keeps trading things and fixing and trading to keep himself busy and not tweaking) from what the guy says that I got it from lol, The guy I got it from assumed he could get more for the boat than his truck so he took the deal, He never took it out on the water but he DID dry fire it 3 times, Letting it run no longer than a few seconds.. If that helps, I will check the plugs when its better outside, But the oil is new and the oil filter is new. The cap and rotor looked new too.
huskerdually avatar
huskerdually
+1y
The water pump should put quite a bit of water just at idle.

I suggested the tune up because it sounds kinda like an ignition problem(hard to tell over the computer). If it has been sitting the points could have rusted/pitted from condensation(see it all the time after winter storage).

I just like to make sure the basics are right before I go searching for a big problem.
slammedyota91 avatar
slammedyota91
+1y
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Hey guys, first off thank you to all and any who can help me. Just a real quick question, Im re setting my timing gear, and saw I have a wire not connected coming from the alt to the battery side of the engine bay.
I have a Volvo AQ130C engine and looks to be a stock alt? also looks like its externally regulated... If Im wrong correct me please
I have 4 terminals on my alt. One RED which has a thicker red wire coming off going to I think my battery positive post then a lil terminal right next to it with a think black wire coming off it going to I think the regulator?..



Then I have this other cluster of wires (2) Blue and (1) thin black one, One blue wire is crimped into a white one...


The other blue one, I couldnt tell where it went. The white one leads to the battery area/starter area but isnt connected to anything, Also has a ring terminal


Does it go to the positive post on the starter? or?... switched 12v? is it the igniter/exciter for the alt? Thanks again. The boat is a Glastron V164 '71
slammedyota91 avatar
slammedyota91
+1y
Well, Today I pulled it all apart, and checked out the timing, Seems to be dead on accurate. Which kinda sucks lol, Anyway, Im putting it back together tomorrow, Looking in the dist. everything has been replaced and more and more Im certain its been rebuilt, everything is new. Were going to test and adjust the dwell if necessary tomorrow or sunday. Does anyone know the firing order? My plugs are labeled 1-4 front of boat (water pump side) is 1-2-3-4, Now with the engine at TDC the dizzy should be pointing to cylinder 1....Right? However (according to whats on the tape on my plugs) its pointing dead on to cylinder 4. Could this engine still run 180 out? Were going to go through everything this weekend, and last case scenario is pulling the head to check if the guy put the head gasket on backward... any info would be awesome thanks guys.
mazdadropped avatar
mazdadropped
+1y
Damn still havent figured it out ?? hows the car coming
slammedyota91 avatar
slammedyota91
+1y
Havent touched to car since the jambs got done, Been working 51 hour weeks. I have just been working on my boat periodically after work for a few minutes a day..


I threw it back together and got a dwell meter, Checked my points and they were shot. Took the alternator off because i want to get it tested and figured while were at the parts store for new points have them test my alt. I got the points but nobody wanted to test my alt without a part # jerks... anyway, I didnt put the alt back in because I need to get it tested so I am going to get that done tomorrow at an alt. shop. However, I replaced the points with the new one and set the dwell to 61. Tried starting it, and now Im not getting any spark past the dizzy. Spark going to it, none coming from it... I dont think I NEED the alt. hooked up to have my ignition spark?? do I?