mazda idle problems... HELP ASAP

any 32/36 or 38/38 DGEV or DGAV or DGV will work.

Keep in mind, you will likely need to re-jet the carb if you buy it from something other than a long stroke 4 cylinder. Most used carbs will need rebuilt too.

So do the math, if you get a carb for 100 dollars, and the parts to install it are 100 dollars, and you have to rebuild and rejet for another 100 dollars, you have spent 300 on a carb kit that could be had for ~400 new....


D is dual, G is the linkage orientation, E is electric choke (or A for water choke) and V is for "variable" which means the carb is progressive, the 32mm primary opens at part throttle and the 36mm secondary barrel opens at anything past that.

A 38/38 DGES DGAS is the same basic design and mounting, except it has two barrels of equal size, 38mm, and the "S" means syncronous, both barrels open at the same time. In my experience, this is too much carb for a stock internals engine. The progressive carb will get much better gas mileage in town and will not act like a caged panther at stop lights.

Quite obviously, A "DGV" carb will be the same design, but have no automatic choke. Instead it will have a manual choke actuated by a cable.

Do not use the DFAV or DFEV. The "F" indicates the carb is a mirror image of a DGAV carb, the linkage is on swapped sides. ICT's will not work, nor DCOE's, nor any others, without some serious work.

i got my weber for free,but i did some snooping around last night and found the adapter kit for 45 bucks the rebuild kit for25 bucks and im not shure if i need the linkage kit but thats only 17 bucks so for around 77 to 100 bucks id say thats a deal oh yeah some one had converted the water choke to electric as far as rejetting i think i should be alright the carb came off of a old subaru brat that had a4 cyl in it its oriented the same way a vw block is though

orientation wont matter, all dge/av's have the same base.

Soundslike you got a super sweet deal! Where are you getting a rebuild kit for 25 bucks though, thats dope cheap. Does it come with a new power valve or is it just a gasket kit? The cheapest I can get a good rebuild kit with a power valve is about 38 bucks in town (dont forget to add shipping!)

The chokes swap with just three bolts, and water chokes are more accurate but electrics are easier to hook up. I'd say you didnt get hurt no matter what!

well im gonna try and get this damn thing to pass emissions (crossing my fingers) if it does out with the vacume mess and in with the weber ,i found it all on webercarbsdirect.com russ

well, the power valve is shown in the picture, if shipping is less than 13 bucks you got a great deal on the rebuild kit!

To pass visual, modify your stock air cleaner to fit the weber.

i still dont know whats wrong with my mazda. the fuel filter has alot of bubbles in it like its getting air pockets in it, and everytime the trucks off the fuel runs back to the tank, or somewhere cause it drys out the fuel filter its self...

your check valve might be bad ,its mounted on the body mount for the bed might want to test it couldnt think of anything else but im shure russ-d will come up with some thing

also RUSS-D does the computer controle anything else

are the egr valves high?

Originally posted by wantmolo



also RUSS-D does the computer controle anything else

I hope not, or mine is still controlling my truck from its location in the city dump (mount wichita)

Haha just kidding, the computer is only for the carb. lose the carb, lose the computer. You can even get rid of 99% of the harness coming through the passenger firewall.

BluBlaster, sounds like you have a suction leak in your hoses, or in your pickup tube.