Weber Carb Question?????/

Hmm... I would've run splitter before the fuel pressure regulator myself, pump pushes against the reg, which reduces flow, causing a buildup of pressure between the pump and reg, then excess fuel goes back to tank, reduced fuel pressure goes to carb.
But, I'm not a mechanic so it's just what I would've done to ensure the pump doesn't have too much pressure against it.

Oh, and I'd put the filter before the splitter and reg, this way only "clean" fuel returns to the tank and won't build up any blockages inside the regulator.

HMMMMM. You make a TON of sense!

I did wonder about the filter after the reg thing, but honestly it was a last second throw together thing; there is already a filter in the line by the tank.

I still got some more tubing, so i'll hook that up tomorrow. will need some 1/4 inch though and a 3/8 in convert dingus.

SO,
Fuel-In to Filter
Filter to Splitter
Splitter to Check Valve/Return
Splitter to FPR
FPR to Carb

Or should i put the Filter between the FPR and splitter?

Thanks a million!

-Burt

I'd go with the filter before everything, I'm pretty sure that the FPR is a diaphragm inside, so it might be ok now, but in a couple of years time it could slowly build up a bit of junk inside, the filter can be whipped out and replaced pretty easy, the FPR probably isn't too user friendly for strip down and repair.
Oh, as for PSI, I have a Holly type FPR with a gauge but I set my pressure to 2PSI and no problems yet, if you run out of gas at high revs or extended highway cruising its probably your float level (not that you say that's a problem, just for anyone else reading this post)

I ran around yesterday with my original fuel plumbing; at high RPM it ran out of gas and bogged down hard!

I have since switched the loaction of the splitter/return to up stream from the FPR and now she rund (even at high RPM) like a champ. took out the 2nd fuel filter for now, it'll go back in when i replace the rest of the rubber fuel lines.

PSI set too 3.5 (i've read every thing i can find on it and 3.5 is what Redline consistenly states as being "standard").

What does running 2 or 3.5 PSI do anyway?

Next i replace all the old crackly fuel lines!

PSI is the force of fuel pressure in the line, I've read that the 32/36 DGV needs <3.5 PSI otherwise the pressure is too high for the float valve to keep closed, this will fill the fuel bowl too high and will allow the fuel to build up to a level inside the carburettor where it will run over the side of the fuel bowl and trickle unregulated down the throttle body, making your motor run rich and causing fouling at idle.

Higher PSI does not, more power make.

Higher GPH is what you want if you're bowl empties too fast, some people run higher PSI hoping to get a bit more flow but they don't realise that the amount extra is minimal between 2 & 3 PSI.

So how's it running now? All good?

She is running Great!
Still wishin' I got the Manual choke.... but it works.
I replaced some more fuel lines and the brake booster vac line; made a difference!

Kinda off topic from this thread but still weber related;
Is there a better gasket kit for the adapter plates? The cardboardy ones it came with are already leaking a bit.

I cut my own gaskets from rubberized sheet gasket from O'Reillys, and used Permatex Aviation on them (O'Reillys or Ace Hardware).

Now I also know to sand flat the adapters using wet/dry on a sheet of glass.

You can buy a thicker grade of gasket paper off most auto suppliers, also I changed my choke from water to a manual one using a eBay kit, I had to make a bracket for the cable but apart from that its a pretty easy thing to fit and do.