5.7L 350 swap done right

your truck looks good... but do you get nose bleeds when you get it in? lol any plans for bags or lowering it?

yea i took the wheels off because i couldnt get them to tuck they are 9x20 but now it is static droped 3" as soon as i can come up with the money im gonna bag it

TRUCK IS LOOKING GOOD BRO

Good choice it definitely needs some bags....keep dem updates coming for the pic whores

Really? Most of the advice I've seen on the V8 swaps say the Mazda drive shaft will "twist into a pretzel" if used. Can anyone vouch either way for using the original shaft behind a V8?

While we're on the subject, will the original fuel pump from a '93 B2200 feed a 5.0? - the specs I've found rate the Mustang's in tank pump as the same as the Mazda's - 160LPH.
THX in advance.

I used the Chevy tube for the front piece of my 2pc shaft.
I had to turn a few thousandths off the Mazda yoke & weld it in to the tube, but I used the rear Mazda shaft.
The tube thickness differences between the two is not worth mentioning, so the Mazda shaft works just fine.
There were no problems with this setup until the rear end locked up.


I also used my Mazda fuel pump for four months. The reasons I changed it to a Chevy pump is because the pickup screen was torn and trash got in it... AND it was cheaper than a Mazda replacement.

get rid of the stock mazda rear end and mazda drive shafts dont last. The first time you really lay into it the rear end will start to go put in a nissan pathfinder rear end and get a drive shaft built. The nissan pathfinder rear end is way stronger and you can get many different rear ratios to gear your truck properly. Plus the nissan rear end is disk which is a great up grade.

I agree with you on the rear end, but my motor puts out 345 foot pounds of torque.
I've really laid into it 40 or 50 times, with no drive shaft issues.
When the rear failed, I was on a dirt road going about 10 mph.
The shaft was just collateral damage.

I have just ran in to this site. wow lots of great things on here. I know that this is from over a year ago. I figured that I would still add to this. someone said that you have to move the firewall in order to do the 350 swap. I just did the swap in a 87 Mazda b2000. I took a 350 out of a 1993 Silverado. it is no longer TBI I changed it over. I however didn't move the firewall in any way. the only thing that I did was build motor mounts and had to drop a small section of the very front frame cross member to make room for the harmonic balancer. you also have to add an electric water pump so you can clear the radiator. I am not using a stock Mazda or Chevy 350 radiator mine is out of a 2002 3.8l Camaro. it isn't the best-looking truck still have a lot to do. I understand that very one has there own way of getting it done. this is just another way. there have not been any suspension changes in the front. I am however having a problem with power steering lines any help or info would be great. will add photos.

If determined to go V-8, use '55-'57 oil pan. It is front sump, so the cross member under the engine may not need any modification. Will need '55-'57 oil pump pickup tube also. Late '70's V-8 car mounts, they are short so engine will sit low. I would work around affecting the firewall, just for heat and a/c issues.