DONE WITH MY TRUCK 4 SALE!

like bro said above, it prolly is something simple...not easy, cause if it was you'd have done found the fix.....

I will say this, I had the same sorta issue when I went to first crank my motor a couple months ago....it was all in the wiring to the coil & the dizzy....altho mine isn't fi, it doesn't have the stock ignition, i have an accel 300+ & super coil, the black wire with the white stripe in the front harness is the hot from the ignition, it must go to the + side of the coil, the blue with yellow stripe (or visa-versa yellow/blue)goes to the - side, and there are like three wires that control the fuel pump, and several other functions that tie to that particular wire.....you will also have to pig tail off of the black & white on the postitive to one of the two dizzy wires (can't remember which one right at this time), the module in the dizzy must be powered, if not, it won't send a signal to the coil/ignition when to break the spark, thus the light on the tester is staying lit, instead of flashing like a strobe like mikey said.....It took me a minute or two lookin at my chiltons to figure this out as the accel ign only came with diagrams for chevy/ford/chrysler, not to mention I had to have the tach adapter also.....more than likely this is what is wrong, won't swear to it since I'm not there lookin at it in person, but hey it is worth a try esp since you've put so much work & $ into a kool ride....I will try (key word try, since I'm working 13hr nightshifts on an outage) to get a scan of my chilton's wiring diagram, if not maybe mikey or one of the other guys could hook you up with one...but like I said, if the tester is staying lit, this is most likely your problem...

Good luck bro, keep us posted, and If I can manage to get a scan I'll pm you a copy...

lol im not reading all that ^^^^^ by the time i finsh that i wont want to post lol, ill read it another time lol

ok now with the test light not flashing when you crank it, means your not getting a negitive AC voltage to the coil, which it produced by the dizzy, check the 4 wires comming from the dizzy and follow them, or change the parts

the computer should have a ground wire somewhere, those ecus wont work with out it, the case of the ecu is isolated from itself, it'll be a thin wire with a big ring connector on it splitting off the main harness

OK well im going to take one other look through everything, i think this is all CRAZY... Its such a simple system 2 vac lines is all and 4 wires out of dizzy then a couple to the coil.


GRRRRRRR I DO WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR TRYING TO HELP ME SO FAR.... SOSA I STILL WANT TO GET BOX BUILT JUST FOUND THIS PROBLEM...

AND if my buttons get pushed much more with this truck i found a decent priced webber and i have my old mani sittin in a solvent tank at work!

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<willing to pay someone lol

I appologize, I wasn't able to get a scan of the wiring schematic for you (working 13hr day's plus an hour drive to & from leaves you no time for much else), but I did snap a couple pics with my cell, they are pretty shi%%y, but maybe they will help.....

FI - coil is in the middle of the pic (small square box), the box below it is the dizzy, it only shows 3 wires coming off of it, not 4....?


they (Carb'd & Fi trucks) do share one thing in common, the thick black with white striped wire in the front harness does go to the coil's + terminal, and also ties to one of the wires coming off of the dizzy
(bottom wire on the dizzy in the pic) .....here's where they differ, there is a wire coming off of the ecu's 2F terminal that goes to one of the wires on the dizzy (the middle wire in the pic), and if I'm not mistaken the wire on the coil's - (neg) is the yellow & blue stripe or blue with yellow strip that has the test connector on it, it also ties into the instrument cluster (it is the top wire in the pic)

I know you don't want to throw any more $ at the prob, but I'd deff reccommend spending $20 and getting a chilton's book, it will come in handy for this issue & many more down the road....as some one said before, get the chilton's not the haynes manual.....

Oh, and for reference, the Carb'd diagram pic (not that you need it)

ok we we have everything wored up the way you stated, infact we have chiltons and haynes lol


Here is problem, i cant get spark with it hooked up this way.......I have nothing! I need to kno where the coil recives its signal to spark. because thats what im lacking. everything is wired correct just seems as if dizzy not talking to coil or ecu not talking to coil.... I just dont know what order it all works in


I dunno how the crank sensor works/ its inside the dizzy.... How does the crank sensor tie to the coil.... Am i missing a relay of some sort?

I appologize, for not being able to help more....I glanced at my book again today, and the wire coming off the 2f terminal on the ecu is or should be red/yellow, not blue/yellow as I said before, it is the one that ties to the center wire shown in the diagram on the dizzy.....the black/white do tie to the + on the coil and to a black or blue (the chilton's doesn't have a legend to tell what the cooresponding colors are to the symbols are in the drawings) on the dizzy....then it appears there is a w (white) that ties from the - of the coil to the white wire on the dizzy, it also ties to the instrument cluster, and something else....oh, one other thing, you said the crank trigger is in the dizzy....the diagram shows it separate with a wire from it straight to the ecu, but that could explain the other wire on the dizzy since the diagram doesn't say where the crank trigger is located.....

the crank trigger tells when the engine is @ TDC, by looking at the ecu diagram, I'd say it sends it's signal there, and back out of the ecu to the igniter coil in the dizzy, which as the dizzy spins, it breaks or closes the signal the igniter coil generates and lets power go to each of the plug wires accordingly...

since you have the chiltons, look at the wiring diagram that I posted below, double check what I've said above since I'm going from memory and a short glance....chase the wires down accordingly...if you have a chance take a pic or two of the connections (dizzy & coil, etc), and I'll be happy to look @ them to see if I notice something awry, who knows - two sets of eyes are better than one in some cases...

will do that bud, see it ran before i pulled everything out lol.......NOW NOTHING so bought new harness and it seems im missing maybe 2 plugs but not sure what they are. they are on pass side....

I think its dizzy or ECU but no one within 300 miles has a FI model b2200 here

well I have given it a chance, and a chance after that... AND WAIT another chance and no fucking way is this thing going to FIRE OFF

Here is the list!


NEW COIL
NEW IGNITION MODULE
NEW MAIN FUEL RELAY
NEW FUEL CONTROL UNIT
NEW RESISTOR
NEW ENGINE TO ECU HARNESS
NEW INJECTOR HARNESS
NEW PLUGS
NEW WIRES
NEW CRANK ANGLE SENSOR

IM JUST GOING TO STOP, JUST THINK AND PRICE ALL THAT SHIT OUT AND FIGURE HOW MUCH I HAVE INTO THIS THING.......NOT EVEN RUNNING! MOTOR IS REBUILT WITH LESS THEN 500 MILES ON IT..... NOT EVEN BROKE IN..............AND SHE JUST WONT FIRE OFF... CANT FIGURE IT OUT.

IM SURE ITS AN ECU PROBLEM EVEN THOUGH ALL PIN OUTS HAVE CORRECT VOLTAGE BUT I DUNNO I GIVE UP......SO IF ANY ONE WANTS A COMPLETE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM HIT ME UP HAHAHA

OR IF YOU KNOW OF THE CORRECT ECU ILL BUY IT FROM YOU VIA PAYPAL!

F20G8 MANUAL TRANS