York 210 build and Accuair install

I never check the oil in my york, I just add 8 oz every week or so depending on how much I drive it. Blowing oil is going to happen regardless of doing the mod or not, I spoke to kilby years ago and at that time they said not even waste your time doing it but I had already done it so I left it that way. Mine gets noisy when it gets low so I kinda go by the noise on when to fill it. Did you put a breather on the fill hole? It helps keep the pressure down in the sump and helps cut down on blow by oil. Keep a quart of non detergent 30w with ya and drain the filter frequently and should be pretty maintenance free. I have ran mine at 200 psi for years with no problems. It needs to be rebuilt as the rings are getting bad as I over heated it once when my airline got a hole in it and kept it running, was on a freeway in heavy traffic and couldnt get pulled over for awhile to shut it off. I used to use hydraulic hose but it kept melting the rubber from the inside out and would get holes after awhile, replaced it once a year or so and got sick of it so switched over to copper last year and no issues so far. My edc has always blown really hot air, not sure if that is normal or not, the head is untouchable while running as it gets so hot.

Thanks man! I will keep the 30W like you said, and make sure to check it every so often. Mine gets hot as well, must be what they do. I will keep that copper in mind for the future. So far it has been working really well. Thanks for the post!

Been a while since I have had anything new on this thread. My only update is that I have replaced the swivel connectors on top of the valve for push in air brake connectors. The original swivel connectors were prone to leak on two of the bags, and I know that the air brake connectors do not leak, period.

So while I was taking the rear of the truck apart getting ready for paint I decided to put the new connectors in. I have these air brake connectors on each of the bags, and they have worked flawlessly, so it made sense to eliminate any potential problem spots while I had the whole mess apart.

Looking good. Mine took a crap on me the other day, something let loose inside finally, it has been making quite a bit of noise and going through more oil lately. I think the rod broke as it will spin back and forth some but locks up. Smoked the clutch in the process as I didnt realize it right away, clutch got super hot and was smoking. I guess I cant complain, 8 years of use on a used one that I overheated once real bad. Got a rebuilt one on its way with a new clutch.

So life has been really busy lately, but I wanted to give an update on the air ride system on my build.

If you have been watching my main build page then you know that I am doing the body work right now. However I did get the frame painted and I recently got the entire air ride system back on the vehicle and finally calibrated! The issue I was having was that I would start the calibration when the truck was completely lowered and laid out. Wrong! As it turns out I needed to start it at ride height. From what Accuride and I could tell the sensors were having an issue with it laid out to start the sequence. So simply moving it to ride height allowed the system to go through the whole process, and now it is calibrated!

I have only one additional small issue and that is number one valve (drivers side front) has a diaphragm that must have a small particle in it because that side of the vehicle continues to rise. I just have to get in there and clean it out thoroughly.

Again I hope this post has helped some of you on your builds. It was a lot of work to put together, but in the end a lot of fun as well.

let me know if you have any questions and I will be glad to help.

Mine was sticking like that awhile back....had some thread tape in it....to pull thw vakves apart takes a special little tool....call accuair they will send you kne for free

Scratch tbat your not running the VU-4 lol

Out of curiosity on your error your getting from running a relay to power the clutch. I bet you could run a small resistor inline on your trigger wire to fool the system into thinking there is more of a draw on the system than the relay pulls. Should affect the relay and the accuride computer things its pulling power. Win win. Just a thought and very nice build!!

My Accuair system is running an engine driven thru a relay and has been for almost a year with no problems...