sounds good man, so your stuff is built more for daily driving relabilty correct?
tre5
+1y
exactly!
juicedwagon
+1y
the o-ring fittings are just a BSP thread right?
tre5
+1y
Edited: 5/16/2012 3:34:34 PM by tre5
British? No, they are straight SAE.
juicedwagon
+1y
OK just wondering. I do like the fitting idea, i like the 8 dump manifold idea even more.
sparkranger
+1y
Despite me being a moron and trying to tackle a speed table,
I'm happy with the install on the RL. Patiently waiting for
everything to break in so I can be all comfortable.
Thanks Jeremy.
banned8
+1y
do you offer any kits for a 2010 chevy cobalt 4 door?and how close can you get the cobalt to lay body?what would you have to do as far as raiseing and cutting?
tre5
+1y
Any of our setups will work for a cobalt. I have not done one yet, so I can not tell you what would need to be done to make it lay body, but I do not cut up the cars or raise anything when I do installs. I just swap out the stock suspension for the hydraulic cylinders. 90% of the installs I do are bolt in, but since I haven't done a cobalt I do not have a bolt in kit for the suspension.
...
artsar
+1y
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FS209420 said:
do you offer any kits for a 2010 chevy cobalt 4 door?and how close can you get the cobalt to lay body?what would you have to do as far as raiseing and cutting?
--------------------------------------------
To get these cars to lay out is hard. Especially if you don't have the equal length drive shafts from the SS. I have an 05 Ion on Hydroholics parts and its 1/2" or so up front from laying out on a 225/30/20 with 6" cylinders, custom drive shaft and soon to be Z'ed control arms. As for the rear I had to make a custom swing arm. These cars are not easy to lay out unless you want to fab alot of new suspension product.
tre5
+1y
Yeah, laying it all the way out would be a lot of work, but just juicing it wouldn't be. Like Adam said, plan on a ton of fab work to get it as low as possible.