Quantum Audio

no one is as dumb as u r when it comes to car audio thats why no one has agreed with u but they have agreed with me. Try getting a amp book and read up on how the gain knob works

the gain on an amp is only there to match the freq. coming from your source unit.

Originally posted by shvd64cdy



Originally posted by framedragger



personally why are spending more cash on audio when you have a setup already? why not just turn down your gains and cut off your bass boost (which it should be already). If you think you can blow a sub by underpowering it, thats completely wrong. When you turn down the volume, you cut down on your wattage and current pull, therefore underpowering your sub. The only way to blow a sub is overpowering them and clipping the hell out of them. I personally would just tweak what you have to fit your taste.

WOW! WAY TO POST TOTALLY INACCURATE INFO. 1ST OFF, DISTORTION IS GENERALLY WHAT BLOWS SPEAKERS OR SUBS POWER ALMOST NEVER HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT. YOU CAN TAKE A 1,200 WAT SUB, PUT A SHITTY, DISTORTED SIGNAL TO IT WITH 10 WATTS AND IT'LL BLOW. YOU CAN TAKE A 25 WATT SPEAKER, PUT 100 WATTS OF CLEAN SIGNAL, AND IT WON'T BLOW.

YOUR THEORY IS COMPLETELY WRONG, LOOK INTO IT.



Actually you are the one who is incorrect sir. The first thing you need to do is learn exactly HOW a subwoofer, or any transducer for that matter, works. Do yourself a favor and visit this site:http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/speaker5.htmandhttp://electronics.howstuffworks.com/speaker6.htm

Now in order to blow a transducer you must inflict physical damage to the voice coil or that of my suspension. In this arguement we will only concern ourselves with the coil. Electrically you can ONLY blow a coil by delaminating it through excessive heat. Excessive heat is generated from power. Distortion is used to describe a property of the signal and is not power. To that end hook up your 10 or even 100 watt amp and clip the dog snot out of it and the signal you are feeding it, then send that output to any sub with a 1kW rms power handling and watch and wait. You, I and this generation will long be turned to dust before that sub dies from the electrical abuse from that amp. In fact it probably will never die electrically.

And if you'd like I'll hook up my RF100g2 (150w rms amp) and distort the living doggie doo out of the signal, then make that little amp clip like some scissors on crack and then send that horridly clipped and distorted signal to one of my DD 9915s. (The DD is thermally rated to 3000w rms.) The sub has and will again laugh at the amp indefinately.

You sir are the one who needs to check up onyour info.

Originally posted by rickster6924



U can't turn down the watts by turning down the gain it don't work like that ur gain control is not a volume control!!! It adjust the amount of frequencies u send to the speakers no matter how low or how high u turn it u get same amount of watts and it is better to over power ur subs a little then is to under power them alot. O and u can fuck up ur subs by under powering them

Why is it that everyone seems to know what a gain is not, yet haven't a clue what it is? Yes a gain is not a volume, and NO a "gain" does NOT control anything pertaining to frequencies. A gain, by definition, is a potentiometer on the input signal that adjusts the sensativity of an amplifer to that signal. The more sensative you make the amp (turning up the gain) the more it amplifies the signal fed to it.

As proof consider what power is. P=IVcos(theta) Where "P" is power in watts, "I" is current in AC ampres, "V" is AC voltage, and "cos(theta)" is the phase angle between the voltage and current. For simplicity, lets ignore the phase angle difference. Remember the current x the voltage = power in watts.

Hook a DMM (digital multimeter) set to What you are thinking of are called crossovers. Crossovers can be highpass, lowpass, bandpass, or subsonic (a type of lowpass) These are what filters what frequencies of the singal the amp gives the transducers.

and end thread. bumpin, thank you, you pretty much said what i was saying, in better words.

thank you.

the gain IS a power knob in a sense, as he said current*voltage=wattage and wattage is what we call power. turning the gain knob raises voltage there for when you multiply a positive by a positive it is ALWAYS A HIGHER POSITIVE.....therefore power will always go up when you turn that little "frequency knob" as rickster says it is, to the right.

Edited: 5/7/2006 8:40:52 PM by BumpinYota

Edited: 5/7/2006 8:36:23 PM by BumpinYota

Edited: 5/7/2006 8:31:24 PM by BumpinYota

And one last thing. Someone mentioned "true 1400watt amp" Just a little FYI, the number of amps that will actually acheive their rated power into a reactive load I can count on one hand. Most of them you cannot afford unless you have and extra 1k sitting around and that's at dealer. Here's why.

A tranducer's impeadance is not fixed. Why? because if you move a coil of wire over a stationary magnet, a small amount of power is produced by the coil. This is called an electromotive force (EMF.) Now since the amp is producing power and giving it to the coil and thus making it move, the coil is also generated this back EMF which in essence "fights" the amp. Thus your 4ohm dcr sub when put in a box and forced to play 45hz at any given volume is going to most likely have an average impeadance (not the same as resistance) somewhere around 8 to 12 ohms pending the box and the environment around the subs cone...

And im not even scratching the surface on this. You also have the thermal effects on impeadance as well as the loss in power from the current not being in total phase with the voltage from the inductive load...

Wrap that around your noodle!

And if anyone wonders whats up with me and what I do know about this stuff...21 1st place finishes amognst 4 years of competition on the world level doesnt lie ;)

http://www.termpro.com/asp/competitorstats.asp?Competitor_ID=18976&Season=2006&Page=5

^^ you forgot the to read the word "like" in front of "TRue 1,400watt amp". I was actually exagerating. Why? beacause this amp was purchased used right now it has no labeling what so ever, I do know that is a kiker. A local installer told that he had one tested just like this one and it tested over 1,200watts according to him. I am assuming mine is the same thing. regardles of 1000 or 1400 is still way much for what i need it for.

Thank you for clearing ou this dilema. I did not coment on it because I can't say that I know enough to argue but thanks for the help now let's hope I can get my thread back. I got hi-jacked there for a while.

Originally posted by framedragger



personally why are spending more cash on audio when you have a setup already? why not just turn down your gains and cut off your bass boost (which it should be already). If you think you can blow a sub by underpowering it, thats completely wrong. When you turn down the volume, you cut down on your wattage and current pull, therefore underpowering your sub. The only way to blow a sub is overpowering them and clipping the hell out of them. I personally would just tweak what you have to fit your taste.

you can blow a sub will less power just as fast as too much power. read up on car audio so you get a better understanding because your using the wrong terms to justify your answer.

and so it starts again. U CANNOT BLOW A S?UB WITH TOO LITTLE POWER! turning down your head unit proves this!

im done, bumpin yota explained it ideally, whether u believe it or not, is your choice. proof is proof.

hum....it looks like I will never get my thread back. Well when I get my car done or almost done I will open a new thread to see if I can keep it from getting hi-jacket to another subject.
Grant thanks 4 the help, let's hope the READ before posting from now on.