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Yota 2.4L 22-RE I4 \  Weber for 22r (with pics)

Weber for 22r (with pics)

Yota 2.4L 22-RE I4 Yota Engine Yota Tech
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smorrison1   +1y
nearing completion on my carb, just need to know these last few things:

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Where does letter A hook up? the one below it also...

For B, this is a little vacuum thing coming off the intake just under the carb, wth is the point of this? can i just plug it?

C: I ordered my parts from weber and i guess i forgot to order the block off plates. can i just plug the lines coming off of this, or should i take the whole thing off and just block the holes (i have spare metal and could make block off plates if i need to.

D: and this is a biggy, I pulled this line and have no clue where it goes, it comes from the brake booster, but i cannot remember for the life of me where it hooks up.

can anyone help me lol, pictures would be best, but if you dont have them, i have enough mechanical knowledge to figure out what you are telling me.

thanks, in advance.
yodaforce   +1y
You can get a female pipe plug for the EGR (C) where the tube fitting is on the front side, cap off the little nipple on top of it. Everything no longer used on the "octopus" fitting under the pass. side of the carb can be capped off or replace the fitting with a pipe cap (just like C). "A" would normally hook up to a fitting on the air cleaner (it's a crank case vent, my Weber came with the rectangular K&N chrome filter assembly and had a fitting on the bottom of it for this), and as far as "D", My carb has a vacume fitting at the base of the carb. Mine is a 34/36DGEV, only slightly different from yours I believe.
m_i_zombie   +1y
The vacuum line from the carb (only has one) goes to the distributor port closeset to the radiator. It must be connected to the distributor for timing purposes.

D goes to the back side of your intake. It controls the vacuum needed for your powerbrakes. It should be one of 2 large male ports on the intake. One will be for the coolant to enter the intake and be on the bottom of the intake. The other which you will need will either be on the back side or it will come off of the vacuum tree right under the chole on the carb.

If you have the factory intake still you will need the remove the vacuum port tree and plug it so it doesn't leak. The EGR need to be blocked off at the intake, head and exhaust manifold for it to run properly.


I'll post you some pics tomorrow of my set up and label it all for you.
smorrison1   +1y
thanks alot man, that would be a big help
yodaforce   +1y
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Here's mine, even though you can't nessesarily see everything too well. I did not want to have to block off the EGR at three different points so I just capped off where the tube came out into the intake. You can see where the PCV goes into a fitting that weber supplied with my kit that bolts on where the EGR used to go.
smorrison1   +1y
that helps a ton man, i think i got everything figured out, but can you show me or tell me what you did with the spring on the throttle cable? i just gerry rigged something, but i know it wont last long.
m_i_zombie   +1y
OK here is my set up as promised. Now mind you i don;t have a stock intake but it is rather similar.

I tried making this simple.
Green is the shoke hot wire, kook up to your factory riring that goes to the carb.

Blue is from the PCV to the bottom of the air cleaner set up.

Yellow is from the single vacuum port on the carb, it connects to the port farthest from the engine on the Distributor. Cap the other off to keep dirt out and from losing vac.

Orange is from the lower side of the intake (large nipple) to the brake booseter

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Plug from the main harness to carb. Your weber carb will use a male spade to connect to this. Use some dielectric grease to help with connectivity and keep moisture out.
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On all the other vaccuum ports make sure they are plugged, if you have any vac. leaks it won't run right.
smorrison1   +1y
ok, so it turns out the tube i could not figure out where it went, came off of the evap canaster. can i ditch that? just cap off the line coming from the gas tank? or put a breather on it? or maybe just hook it into the canaster and leave it??? lol.

the rest of it I had mostly figured out last night, downloaded a diagram off the internet of the factory vacuum, and traced and crossed out anything i didnt need.
m_i_zombie   +1y
You can get rid of the EVAP set up and other junk as long as you don't have any emission laws.

The throttle spring should not need to modified, Its a DOI. You may have to adjust the throttle cable some. I had to take a lot of slack out but that was due to the body drop.
smorrison1   +1y
ok, got everything hooked up....truck wont start... here are pics, anyone help me figure out whats up???

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