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front end alignment question
tmiit71
+1y
is there a difference between conventional steering (gear box, draglink, pitman/idler arms) and rack-n-pinion front end alignments? if so what would be the best set up for rack n pinion?
bodydropped85
+1y
they both have inner and outer tie rods, but im confused to what ur asking ?
tmiit71
+1y
ok, so here is the specific question, on my full size dodge, conventional steering,when lifted to ride hieght or layed out, the wheels stayed straight ahead.. on my 02 ranger, rack n pinion steering, when lifted the wheels toed out quite noticeably and when layed out the wheels would toe in and point straight ahead. was it just a bad alignment or is it normal?
wht01ranger
+1y
has nothing to do with the steering. it's all about mounting.
an ideal steering setup is where the tie rod end pivot is near where the control arm pivots on the bushing when you look at it from the front. right on it would be best. the height it will be from the lower mount will depend on the spindle used and where the tie rod end bolts up onto the spindle. it comes down to mounting and the rack's width/ or idler-pitman arm distance in relation to the length between the control arms
problem with rangers are they start off from the factory so high up the ground. the tie rod ends are setup to where they are near flat so that you have little toe change. but as you drop the truck, the tie rod end will begin to angle upward and the toe change will increase. it's not linear either, so the further it angles up, the more it will change. for example from a 4inch wheel gap to a 3inch wheel gap, your toe only changes .25inches. but from 3inch wheel gap to 2inch wheel gap it will change .35. this is because the tie rod end travels in a circle.
an ideal steering setup is where the tie rod end pivot is near where the control arm pivots on the bushing when you look at it from the front. right on it would be best. the height it will be from the lower mount will depend on the spindle used and where the tie rod end bolts up onto the spindle. it comes down to mounting and the rack's width/ or idler-pitman arm distance in relation to the length between the control arms
problem with rangers are they start off from the factory so high up the ground. the tie rod ends are setup to where they are near flat so that you have little toe change. but as you drop the truck, the tie rod end will begin to angle upward and the toe change will increase. it's not linear either, so the further it angles up, the more it will change. for example from a 4inch wheel gap to a 3inch wheel gap, your toe only changes .25inches. but from 3inch wheel gap to 2inch wheel gap it will change .35. this is because the tie rod end travels in a circle.
bodydropped85
+1y
get it aligned at ride height. prob solved.
wht01ranger
+1y
what he said ^. but it sucks knowing yer truck is eating your tires alive everytime your even slightly off ride height.
just know that it's supposed to do that because that's how that truck is specifically setup from factory. and if you want to drive out of the ride height, then just know you'll be buying tires more often. or u can redo the steering
just know that it's supposed to do that because that's how that truck is specifically setup from factory. and if you want to drive out of the ride height, then just know you'll be buying tires more often. or u can redo the steering
bodydropped85
+1y
i just re read your questoin, man you have sumthing binding some were, cuz its supposed to toe out when u lay it out and toe in when u lift it up past ride hiehgt...
tmiit71
+1y
yep, it toes out over ride height and toes in when layed out.......is there a better rack n pinion to use, like the 'ol mustang II's? or maybe better tie rod ends.. thanks again for your knowledge.. p.s., it'll be re-aligned at a higher ride height.. these roads here in VA sux..
tmiit71
+1y
Man am i late!! well I wanted to stop by and say thanks to everyone about this.