interior, stereo, micro fiber etc.

panels should look great, gonna put in a speaker mount? keep us posted

I just wrot this to respond to a question about my sub set up.

hey bro hows it?

On the sub set up what I did with my sub was build the box load it and hook everything up and aim it at different surfaces in the cab from different directions. To find out which the best direction was for sound dynamics
This may sound crazy but it works and I believe it is key to building the best system you can out of what ya got to work with. (from experience)
If you want to test this theory just think about why hatchbacks tend to have killer bass naturally, or if you turn the subs at the rear of a car in a trunk its usually intensified. If ya have a home theater system at home, do this test, place the sub in the middle of the room and then place the sub in the corner of the room and fire it into the corner and listen to the difference.

So here is the explanation for that, bass is a long travelling frequency it needs to travel through a lot of airspace before it peaks or hits the highest intensity just think you can hear rumbling from far away where as higher frequencies do not travel very far before they peak.

In a truck interior, especially ours, there is very little airspace, so if ya want little bass IN the truck and to be heard on the street buy a couple o 12s and put em in a box smaller than reccommended. That will suck inside but roll down your windows and with enough power you will thump the sidewalks.

Thats not what Im about I like to keep a low profile and have good bass in my ride. And get the most bass for my money

So I stripped my interior and played with different locations with my sub, firing the sub at the headliner was the best result. So I made a new box out of fiberglass molded it to the shape of the floor - firewall space under the dash on the passenger floor. My amp rack is behind my dash.

I have a single 10" sub, Alpine Type-R , 4ohm + 4ohm so I get a 2 ohm load at the amp.
A thousand watt bulb with 100 watts going to it is not very bright think of subs in thr same way , for them to be efficient you need a amp that matches its power. 500w RMS sub needs a 500w RMS amp. DONT OVERWORK A SMALL AMP IT WILL WELD YOUR VOICE COIL TOGETHER because eventually you turn your amp into a welder turning it up too high. Hence distortion. and blown subs.

Bass was a priority so wanting the bass in the cab instaed of on the street I built the system with a 10" less surface area of the cone the better in a small space.for shorter frequency travel.
I tore out almost all of my heating system to do this. And built a custom dash.

Let me know if this makes sense to ya and I will do my best to explain.
mount depth of my sub is about 8" so it can clear and breathe. it is 7" inside lip to bottom of sub.

hopefully this answers a few questions
Dan

I made a few boxes until I got it how I wanted.
://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l24/mazdamandan/dans%20mazda%20b2200/DSC00910.://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l24/mazdamandan/dans%20mazda%20b2200/DSC00863.

Im not a big fan of speakers screaming at my feet my dash is where my speakers are, and aimed at yer face. sounds better to me than doors for sure.

Interesting install on the sub. Been doing custom boxes / installs for many years now and definately understand that placement of the sub(s) can make a world of difference in how you want it to sound and where ( in car or on the sidewalk). Remember doing an Astro van that had 8 12s, 2 15s and a bunch of amps. In the van it only hit 142db, but, with the slider door open you could hear it for blocks (which is what he wanted. In my recent build, was just looking for some bass and found that reflecting it off the windshield gave me a long enough area for a good wave length and decent sound.

Woah, there's definatly something wrong there. One good 10" should hit 140 db and even 4 low line 12's (like JL W0) should hit 145 db.

I agree with that dan said about playing with the speaker positions to get the best sound.

When I put the 6x9s in boxes behind my seat,I had the speakers facing towards the back of the seat,hence the sound being absorbed by the seat and wasn't very loud. I had them positioned that wasy because it was the only way the boxes would fit behind the seat.

So after a little fiddling around and removing the jack and the jack holder and squeezing the boxes into place,I had the 6x9s on the floor,facing upwards and the sound was 10x better and rattled the entire truck.

I'm just planning to run the 4" speakers in the dash,a pair of 6x9s behind the seats and 1 or 2 L7 subs. I don't need a thumping system,I just want something with some kick and that sounds awesome. I like highs as much as I like lows,and the most amazing speakers I've ever heard were some 4-way 280w Kenwood 6x9s I used to have. Actually,I had 4 of them them in my Mystique with a 12" Clarion sub and wow...

oh Immortal1,I really like that sub setup in the pic. That's like what I want to do,but have the 6x9s in seperate boxes behind the seats.

yeah it really depends on the frequency yer shootin fer and the sub thats being used too, and the frequencies the box you build is tuned for , mine is of course to spec for a sealed box I'm a rocker but hip hop sounds good too, Ive got more real world bass than most guys with 2 12" subs in some off the rack mismatched pos box they bought cuz it looked cool LOL

That was prolly alooong time ago before dvc and all paper cones w 1.5lb magnets, hahahahah jk

That is exactly why I built my system the way it is, One GOOD sub with the power matching amp, and you should not need any more than that especailly in a small cab like mine.
Build with brains and quality not just moola!!!