CARB PROBLEMS, ANY HELP?
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CARB PROBLEMS, ANY HELP?
89b2200
+1y
Best choke rpm adjustment is just above your idle rpm when warmed up if you don't have a tach. When warmed up, blip the gas pedal and the idle should drop to idle rpm. You don't want the choke rpm too high, especially nowadays when gas is sky high. And besides, you don't want a very high choke rpm while the engine is still cold.
madmazda
+1y
Can you post that picture bigger, im not sure which one that is.
89b2200
+1y
Sorry, don't have a bigger pic. I'll see if I can get a bigger one later. Too busy with other cars.
If you look at the base of the carb, towards the firewall, where the throttle body shaft sticks out of the carb base, there is a lever on the shaft and a linkage that goes to the top of the carb where it attaches to the electric choke shaft.
Under the lever, there is a slotted hex screw for choke rpm adjustment. You have to look harder, it is hidden somewhat.
Screw it IN with a flat screw driver and it raises the rpm. Screw it OUT, lowers the rpm. Screw it out half a turn each time to lower rpm. Do this on a cold start up. Do not blip the gas pedal until you made the adjustment. Check it again next morning and adjust rpm to your liking.
If you look at the base of the carb, towards the firewall, where the throttle body shaft sticks out of the carb base, there is a lever on the shaft and a linkage that goes to the top of the carb where it attaches to the electric choke shaft.
Under the lever, there is a slotted hex screw for choke rpm adjustment. You have to look harder, it is hidden somewhat.
Screw it IN with a flat screw driver and it raises the rpm. Screw it OUT, lowers the rpm. Screw it out half a turn each time to lower rpm. Do this on a cold start up. Do not blip the gas pedal until you made the adjustment. Check it again next morning and adjust rpm to your liking.
tunes67
+1y
Just a couple of things to add here..
First.. valves dont have "rings".. they have seals.. Pistons have rings.
Second... Unless there is a grayish or bluish tint to the white smoke at start up.. that is completely normal.. its condensation in the exaust system burning off as the pipes heat up. If there is a bluish or grayish tint to the smoke.. or if your truck is puffing smoke when you shift (after warm up) then it is likely that your valve seals are worn down. This "smoke" occurs when the vacuum of the engine increases rapidly. The increased vacuum sucks oil down the valve stems past the worn valve seals.. then the oil burns in the cylinder. If you are only seeing this white smoke at cold start up.. very likely its completely normal and nothing to worry about. If you see smoke during a warm start (like after shutting your engine off for 30 minutes) Then it could be valve seals. If it was antifreeze burning as a result of a blown head gasket or a cracked head or block.. the white smoke would NOT go away after the engine warmed up.. it would only get worse.
Cheers
Tunes67
First.. valves dont have "rings".. they have seals.. Pistons have rings.
Second... Unless there is a grayish or bluish tint to the white smoke at start up.. that is completely normal.. its condensation in the exaust system burning off as the pipes heat up. If there is a bluish or grayish tint to the smoke.. or if your truck is puffing smoke when you shift (after warm up) then it is likely that your valve seals are worn down. This "smoke" occurs when the vacuum of the engine increases rapidly. The increased vacuum sucks oil down the valve stems past the worn valve seals.. then the oil burns in the cylinder. If you are only seeing this white smoke at cold start up.. very likely its completely normal and nothing to worry about. If you see smoke during a warm start (like after shutting your engine off for 30 minutes) Then it could be valve seals. If it was antifreeze burning as a result of a blown head gasket or a cracked head or block.. the white smoke would NOT go away after the engine warmed up.. it would only get worse.
Cheers
Tunes67
madmazda
+1y
Thanks Tunes