threads
Page 2 of 3
Dodge Trucks \  bagging 2000 dodge dakota need some advice and help

bagging 2000 dodge dakota need some advice and help

Dodge Trucks Make Specific
views 4495
replies 27
following 17
 
shellhart   +1y

ok that makes sence then i didnt want to say you didnt need them because i wasnt 100% sure i just knew i didnt have them but didnt know what the difference was. thanks for clearing that up for me makes more sence lol
justin6571   +1y

Well next week im  going to take the rearend to get it narrowed 3 inches on each end so that should give me some more choices on wheels. Im also getting upper and lower control arms from  michigan metal works. thanx for all the help and advice I will put pics of the install and post how it turns out.
JustScrapingBy   +1y
Edited: 9/12/2010 8:27:43 PM by JustScrapingBy

Good choice on going with the MMW arms! Its better to get quality parts first, instead of having to go back and redo things a second time. Dont ask me how I know... LOL
jeebus @ mmw   +1y
damn bro, 3" on each end is gonna look suuuuper slick with some nice dished wheels!

Heres a few update pics on your arms, probably about a week left on them total.



post photo
post photo
post photo
post photo
post photo
post photo
post photo
post photo
post photo
post photo
JustScrapingBy   +1y
second to none fabrication skills right there!! Nice job Taylor!
justin6571   +1y
Those look sick taylor I cant wait to get them and throw them on the truck ill make sure U take lots of pics and post them.
retro dime   +1y
Do you have to Z the frame to lay on 20s? Also is there anything you need to relocate on 20s and/or 22s?

Im trying to figure out how much more of a hassle laying on 22s is versus 20s
98dakota20   +1y
you have to z the frame to lay flat on any wheel combo. with 20s you have to move a lot of stuff. its been awhile since i did mine, but new air intake, moved the bat, fuse box, computer, threw away the wiper fluid thing, maybe more. for 22s (and maybe 20s with a z) you have to do something with the hood hinges, they will hit your tire and you cant open your hood when its laid out. the reason everyone narrows the rear about 3 in is so they will only have to buy one new axle. (one side is longer than the other)
for a fuel cell, you can buy this http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=APR1000. the one for the 97-04, you also need the lock ring for a 97-04 jeep. you just install that on a 12in deep fuel cell, and your stock pump and sending unit will work. if you decide not to narrow, you need at least a +40 offset. check out www.alldakotas.com
retro dime   +1y
Edited: 5/5/2011 12:04:39 PM by KPconcepts

How big does the the Z have to be? Also Im guessing you probably have to tub the firewall too for 20s?

Do you have to relocate stuff to lay on stockers? Thinking about throwing stockers on it (have off road rims n tires on it now) so I can get all the basic bag stuff done, then from there work on whats needed to lay it out on a bigger rim.

But the only added obstacle for 22s are the hood hinges?

Im trying to get a list down to figure out what its going to cost me
98dakota20   +1y
Edited: 5/5/2011 12:21:02 PM by 98dakota20

what year is your truck kp? all the stuff i listed for for a 98, i forget what year shit under the hood changed. i ddidnt tub my firewall, but im not zed. they said the z needs to be around 1 3/4in. and im sure you would have to move more for 22s.