do i havvve to?

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do i havvve to?
chopedmazda avatar
chopedmazda
+1y

maybe he meant bobby?
bodybag avatar
bodybag
+1y

no hes talkin about some other dude he probably hasnt talked to in a year but wants to act like he knows when he doesnt know shit! and about z'ing it. i was thinkin ahead.. maybe do it so it solves the problem and then is ready later when he wants to body it. but i forgot you guys are all bad asses.
corey0814 avatar
corey0814
+1y


i'm getting kinda burned out on seeing this topic over & over (no offence dragitall) i only mean that cause no one ever seems to listen to me or bobby.  YOU DO NOT NEED TO Z ANY TOY'S OTHER THAN NEWER TACOS!!  feel free to im me or bobby & we'll put you on the right track.  whether you listen to us or "the other guys", if it's a money issue...you're just going to have to wait.  either way requires some minor cutting & welding.  you can just slightly rework the lower frame spreader bar & crossmember mounts where your lower control arms attach.  trust us, it IS possible & my stock hood closes without lowering the motor with a traditional 2.5" body drop.  anyone who says it won't lay flat out, or it will look funny is just plain wrong!  here's a couple pics of mine to prove it.  keep in mind that you don't NEED tube arms, i just chose to make them for looks ONLY!!  
corey0814 avatar
corey0814
+1y

post photo
corey0814 avatar
corey0814
+1y


by the way, mine is just past the pinch so it lays flat rockers...  
tuckinlugs06 avatar
tuckinlugs06
+1y

yes but when u do the crossmeber you have to redo the upper a arms ...with s z it take care of the same thing ...i zed mine and i know it was alot easyer then trying to make the front crossmeber work ..and then have to redo everything ...cause if it is bagged then when u move the front crossmember up then u have to move the bagsup,the upper a arms up and mess the steering up..with a z everything moves with the clip..but you only have to make the steering work and i made my stock shaft work just made a 1/6th notch where it hit the arm
sicsan avatar
sicsan
+1y

I WANT EVEN RESPOND TO THE JACKASS THAT DONT KNOW SHIT AND CALLING ME A TOOL.  MAN IF YOU WANNA SEE ILL EMAIL YOU PICS.  ALSO BOBBY FROM SADISTIC KNOWS TOYTAS... BEEN IN THIS SHIT ALONG TIME.  TO BAD WE HAVE IDIOTS THAT DONT KNOW SHIT THAT DO CUT  ALOT THEN WORRY ABOUT WELDING AFTER ITS LAYED OUT...   JUST WISH HE WASNT IN ARIZZONA.....   THE TRANNY MEMBER IS 2 INCHES BELOW FRAME. LOOK ON ANY TOYTA AND YOU WILL SEE THAT. IT HAS TO BE REDONE UNLESS YOU WANT IT TO SET UP RESLLY HIGH.   I GUESS THAT GUY MAY HAVE A 5 INCH BODYDROP TO GET HIS BODY ON GROUND? WHO KNOWS NOT WORTH MY TIME TO LOOK AT SHIT....................
corey0814 avatar
corey0814
+1y


tom,when you section out the portion right below the lca mounts, you're only doing it about an inch.  you do not relocate where your lca mounts to, therefore you have no need to do anything to your uca.  then you make a new frame spreader bar that goes below the oil pan.  i have seen guys just drag them down to size, but i would never trust that.  as far as what you section out from under the lca's it does in fact leave the lca mount only about 1/2" from the ground, but i never drag my shit (well maybe at 1 or 2 mph for 3 feet under a limbo bar or something).  it also leaves your oil pan only about 1-1.5" from the ground too.  i guess i could understand your train of thought if you plan on dragging the f out of the truck & having more "meat" to grind away, but personally i think that's lame anyway.  why spend high dollars (or time if you're doing it yourself) just to destroy it?   as far as the tranny x-member, i never even touched on that because i thought it was pretty self explanitory that everyone knew that had to be either replaced or remade. doing it the way i do (& apparently bobby too) the stock hood still closes w/o lowering the motor, the steering shaft comes nowhere close to the ps gearbox or anything.  it takes about the same time or less & you have less work to do relocating or notching other shit  in the long run. not trying to argue or start shit with you buddy, just saying there's an easier way to do it right rather than cutting your frame in half at the point where it takes the highest stress from the torque of the motor.  i say that cause most "Z's" i've seen are no where near beefed up well enough.  especially when guys do it & then drop a 4.3 or 350 in it!!!  
corey0814 avatar
corey0814
+1y


i tried uploading pics, but it says they're too large so i can email them to anyone interested...   
gslif avatar
gslif
+1y

i would like to see it done your way. seems much easier and alot safer. email is game_star_1@hotmail.com