York 210 Engine Driven Comp info

you can buy them in new condition remanufactured off ebay for like $150 shipped with the clutch of your choice and oil. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/73-84-VOLVO-240-260-YORK-210-A-C-COMPRESSOR-FREE-OIL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220390419250QQitemZ220390419250QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

i got mine at autozone..the dif air clear

I've got one on my fullsize and my courier

Didnt want to read that entire list........but most semi trucks use York 210s for A/C too.  I have 2 V-belt Yorks setting in my garage.

i bought a brand new york 210 from oreilly with a dual v-belt cluch for $169. they had just the compressor in stock with no clutch for like $118 but buying the clutch separate was more than buying the comp/clutch combo together. i think the clutch alone was like $80. so i ordered a comp/clutch combo. after tax and all it was like $185 which is the same as 1 viair 450.

got mine at a junkyard already pulled for $50.  had the dual v belt clutch too.  i think it was out of an 82 volvo.

Edited: 9/20/2009 10:25:57 AM by toreadorxlt

I wrote the original shit that was quoted over on fullsizechevy.com....I do not know how sweet the oil mod is, it seems quite controversial, so don't take that for gold...  I just picked up a new york today at autozone because my old one siezed up. go in an say "1984 volvo 240DL AC compressor". I just paid $130, and its right hand suction...I'm not doing the "oil mod" on this one...    

Edited: 9/20/2009 12:46:22 PM by slammed x on air

Edited: 9/20/2009 12:45:23 PM by slammed x on airI sell the fittings for the yorks for $45 with free shipping to the lower 48 states. email me brian@illusivefabrications.com for more info if anybodys interested.

Yorks come in different sizes, BTW. Of the three different stroke models, the long stroke York is the most desirable. The longer the stroke, the bigger volume of air pumped per minute. The easiest way to determine the output or stroke of the compressor is to look at the crankshaft. To get to the crankshaft, you must remove the pulley. This can be done by removing the bolt and washer holding the pulley on, and running a 5/8" coarse thread bolt in to force the pulley off. All models have a flat end on the crankshaft; the edges of the crankshaft are what's important. A beveled edge on the end is the short stroke. If it has a sharp corner, but is grooved for a retaining clip, it's a medium stroke. And if it is a sharp corner without any grooves, it's a long stroke. If the compressor still has the original Motorcraft metal tag bolted to it, you can use that for reference also. It will have a series of five numbers/letters. The last three are the displacement, and direction. Of those last three digits, the last letter is the output direction and the other two are the stroke. The three stroke numbers are: 10 = long stroke, 09 = medium stroke, 07 = short stroke. The Discharge Direction letters are: L = left, R = right. So if it's a **09R, then it's a medium stroke with a right side discharge.  Of the vehicles that used York compressors, the long stroke model is most common in late 70's to early 80's Volvos. Really good YORK thread:http://www.coloradok5.com/york.shtml  Once you found one how to check it out:There are two things to test for: 1. If the clutch works, and 2. If the compressor pumps air. To test the clutch, look for a single wire coming out of the compressor. This is the wire that is normally connected to the A/C switch on the vehicle, and controls the clutch/pulley assembly. When the wire receives power, it "locks" the clutch, and turns the crankshaft on the compressor. The outer part of the pulley assembly is always turning when the engine is running, and it should spin freely. The inner part of the pulley is what actually makes the compressor turn. To test the clutch, ground the compressor, and touch the single wire to a positive battery terminal. You should hear a "click" when you apply power to the wire. This "click" is the outer part of the pulley, locking to the inner part on the crankshaft. You should be able to turn the pulley with it locked and be able to hear air being pumped. It should also be harder to turn because of this. Also, when you remove the wire, you should hear a "click" again, and the outer part of the pulley should disengage and spin freely again. It is also a good idea to plug one of the hoses with your thumb and turn the crankshaft (inner part of the pulley) with or without the clutch being engaged. Depending on which direction it's turned, it should either suck or blow air against your thumb. It's a good idea to turn it both ways just to be sure it works. If the compressor fails either of these two tests, it has internal damage, or a bad clutch. New clutches aren't cheap, so be sure to get one that works.

When i got my 210 it didnt have the right clutch with it so i went to ebay and got this

5030 CCI AC CLUTCH INTERNATIONAL FREIGHTLINER KENWORTHwhich is the 6 groove clutch for the york compressors for 64.95 ... still not cheap but reasonable...