Tricks of the trade.

when doing body work you can do the spry can idead then sand it and it will show the low spots where the spry can paint is still there and then you can also use a rag and wrap around your hand and feel every like ding bump or anything works out really grate and makes it east to get panels straight

I use the cleanest shop towel i can find and duct tape to stop bleeding.

Originally posted by lobdyblazr



I use the cleanest shop towel i can find and duct tape to stop bleeding.

i prefer toilet paper and electrical tape

Edited: 2/15/2007 1:17:42 AM by onehot69stepside

When I mock up slams and contis I take some all thread and jamnut the plates together at my desired measurement (2.9") between each other. Im sure you could use that trick for other things also.When I need to make bends, I use a wire coat hanger to mock the length and angle of the bend.When you remove a line from a connector and the metal insert stays stuck in the line, you can remove it by melting the line then pulling it out with pliers. thats gotten me out of a tight situation before.Electrical tape for open woundsWhen welding tabs for bushings, bolt the metal insert into the tab so it doesnt warp all to heck.For those extra stubborn pipe threads apply a little of the paste, then the tape over that, then a little more paste on top the tape.Never use thread tape on slams, The alluminum could crack. Paste is best. If you have to use the tape to get it to stop leaking, use only 2 wraps and lots of the paste.Never throw away the rear brake line flex hose bulkhead fitting bracket so you can re weld it to the frame so it will be a "true flexhose" still and you dont have your hardlines flexing when the axle travels. I see that so often.Zip ties to keep shocks compressed.C clamp a laser level to the bottom of your frame rail to get a measurement anywhereRatcheting tie downs work well to suspend the axle from the c notches.

Ill post more as i think of them.

I locate the axle with temporary brackets prior to any fab work...as in a couple metals bars from front and rear to hold the axle at a desired location (close to ride height)..then build the suspension from there. That way you know your axle will be centered in your wheel wells without having to measure and adjust later.

The U bolts off of the factory leafs are a good way to hold the axle while setting up your links. It allows you to easily slide the axle from side to side to center it and adjust the pinion. Once she's centered just tack the axle to the U bolts.