i need some help understanding please!!!!!
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30 replies
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K
i need some help understanding please!!!!!
dragginbagged
+1y
dssur
+1y
MEDULA OB
LONG
GA TA
LONG
GA TA
dragginbagged
+1y
"My momma says..."
dssur
+1y
momma says if you throw an air compressor up in the air it will turn into sunshine.
livinlow
+1y
Quoting Mike White
"derek your wrong, the York with the oil mod done still needs oil in the cylinders"
I wasn't talking about York's,Ben was.
I'm referring to sanden compressors.
"derek your wrong, the York with the oil mod done still needs oil in the cylinders"
I wasn't talking about York's,Ben was.
I'm referring to sanden compressors.
DawgsledMazda
+1y
even a Sanden needs a small amount of oil in the cylinders. the design of the original has oil going in the system with the refrigerant.
the ones Ive seen taken apart all have scorched cylinders, and I have only seen one used one burn up a bearing.
I have probably modded upwards of 30 of these and have only a few failures. all of used compressors I bought from a wrecking yard.
every single new or rebuilt one I have done is still going. they dont use oil, they just need a little in the cylinder.
when used as an A/C compressor the low side runs about 25 to 30 psi or 35 to 45 psi of refrigerant pressure, a little more if its R-134A
if the oil hole is plugged from the top in side the upper case, the compressor still gets oil into the bearing.
many people do the mod by pulling the front cover off and plugging the hole. thats the incorrect way to do this mod. it has to be done from the upper case so the crank slinging around can still oil the bearing.
now that thats done, the compressor will not put much oil into the system, in fact if its new or rebuilt, it will be a very small amount.
so the only other issue after doing this mod is the oiling of the cylinder, easily done with an inline tol oiler. not some huge ass oiler, just a small tool oiler.
then no oil escapes the lower case, the only place it goess is the bearing and around the lower case. you may need to add a half ounce every month, thats it.
you cant run the York or Sanden with no oil in the cylinder, thats just stupid. try doing that with a gas engine.... you may get a block or two before you burn it up.
common sense would tell you the cylinder needs some at least small amount of lubrication. if the compressor is new or rebuilt, even a suction pressure of far more than zero will not suck oil up into the cylinder. the crankcase pressure pushes oil up to the bottom side of the piston just and oils the cylinder, just like a briggs and stratton lawn mower engine, with no oil pump.
with a suction in the cylinder and lower case instead of a pressure of about 35 psi the oil doesnt go up to the bottom side of the piston and oil the cylinder.
your compressor at home and your electric one have nothing to do with this discussion.
the facts in this case are:
1. oil circulates thru the entire York and Sanden compressors with the refrigerant in an a/c system.
2. plugging the oil hole (from the top) stops the compressor from spitting oil out into the lines.
3. an inline (airtool) oiler keeps the cylinder from scorching.
4. a water/oil seperator catches any excess oil on the outlet side.
5. when this setup is done this way the compressor can have a long life.
the ones Ive seen taken apart all have scorched cylinders, and I have only seen one used one burn up a bearing.
I have probably modded upwards of 30 of these and have only a few failures. all of used compressors I bought from a wrecking yard.
every single new or rebuilt one I have done is still going. they dont use oil, they just need a little in the cylinder.
when used as an A/C compressor the low side runs about 25 to 30 psi or 35 to 45 psi of refrigerant pressure, a little more if its R-134A
if the oil hole is plugged from the top in side the upper case, the compressor still gets oil into the bearing.
many people do the mod by pulling the front cover off and plugging the hole. thats the incorrect way to do this mod. it has to be done from the upper case so the crank slinging around can still oil the bearing.
now that thats done, the compressor will not put much oil into the system, in fact if its new or rebuilt, it will be a very small amount.
so the only other issue after doing this mod is the oiling of the cylinder, easily done with an inline tol oiler. not some huge ass oiler, just a small tool oiler.
then no oil escapes the lower case, the only place it goess is the bearing and around the lower case. you may need to add a half ounce every month, thats it.
you cant run the York or Sanden with no oil in the cylinder, thats just stupid. try doing that with a gas engine.... you may get a block or two before you burn it up.
common sense would tell you the cylinder needs some at least small amount of lubrication. if the compressor is new or rebuilt, even a suction pressure of far more than zero will not suck oil up into the cylinder. the crankcase pressure pushes oil up to the bottom side of the piston just and oils the cylinder, just like a briggs and stratton lawn mower engine, with no oil pump.
with a suction in the cylinder and lower case instead of a pressure of about 35 psi the oil doesnt go up to the bottom side of the piston and oil the cylinder.
your compressor at home and your electric one have nothing to do with this discussion.
the facts in this case are:
1. oil circulates thru the entire York and Sanden compressors with the refrigerant in an a/c system.
2. plugging the oil hole (from the top) stops the compressor from spitting oil out into the lines.
3. an inline (airtool) oiler keeps the cylinder from scorching.
4. a water/oil seperator catches any excess oil on the outlet side.
5. when this setup is done this way the compressor can have a long life.
dssur
+1y
MERRY CHRISTMAS MIKE!
By the way, I stopped at an auto air shop today and there was some sage wisdom to pass on:
The piston cylinder is lubricated from below the piston, not from above, on sealed oil system compressors, by crank splash and not magic pressure.
The AC certification is a 10 minute open book exam.
You should be sure to have a crank pulley at least as large as the York donor vehicle or your will overspeed the compressor (max compressor crank speed of 6000rpm) or you will burn up the compressor. He surmised that this was likely the cause of failures, and not oiling.
But keep making up stuff, its fun!
bdroppeddak
+1y
russ d!!!! freakin russ how come you couldnt answer my torque specs question.... i think you know too mucha bout compressors and not enough about engines..........
Severed701
+1y
hey russ....did u ever know that your myyyy heeeeeeero
dssur
+1y
haha its not like that, please dont misunderstand. Mike and I go WAAAY back, he's tried to tell me some tall tales before and I guess I just got tired of it. It's nothing personal, its just the interweb.
re: torque specs question
man cris I'd rather give the right info than just any info. I dont have the torque info.
re: torque specs question
man cris I'd rather give the right info than just any info. I dont have the torque info.