Air Injection Delete: AKA Those Ugly Steel Exhaust Tubes

bad link that is a $300 air cleaner that comes with a carb for free. I want it dimensions of something that fits on top of the circle stock carb that is under 40 box

what about the tube that goes from the air box to the header?

No input for the other tube as the carb was replaced by the PO. But here is mine before and after. I used Doorman #090-075 from autozone. It was $10.96 after tax for 4 of them.
I took off the heat shield while I was there because I think it's ugly. The whole setup is temporary because I'll end up with a motor swap or header eventually.

Bad pictures are bad

://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e391/Reallyslowrio/Mobile%20Uploads/20141002_200750_zps3es7crlx.

Any issues screwing the bolts into the manifold, reallyslowrio?

I used an impact and ran them down, but in reality, a small washer was probably needed.

Cool thanks

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Hi, I have an 87 B2000. Since it's now 30 years old, my state lets me register it as a vintage vehicle with no emissions requirements. Accordingly, I have decided to delete unnecessary emissions exhaust equipment as well to add a little more power. So far, I have removed the front catalytic converter and the ugly steel exhaust tubes. However, ever since removing all that, my truck idles too high when warm. It appears to be a vacuum problem. I'm using the original air intake and carburetor, and I have plugged the 3 reed valve holes with rubber stoppers. I noticed there are vacuum lines coming off of the reed valve box, and I'm concerned that removing the steel exhaust tubing has affected the vacuum, which is causing the truck not to idle down like it used to. Do any of you have any advice? I'm tempted to just put back on the steel pipes and see if it works. Unfortunately, I had a buddy do the crimp and weld trick on the line coming directly off the exhaust manifold, so I'd have to buy a new one to go back to the stock tubing situation, which I'd rather not do. The truck runs otherwise fine. I have timed it and replaced the distributor rotor, cap, and spark wires recently. Any advice would be much appreciated.