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130 amp alternator upgrade for the b2200 for under 150.00

Last Updated: Feb 24, 2015
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1. jeremy stanford
2. jacksonville, florida
4. 1990
5. 2.2
6. Standard Cab
7. 130 amp alternator upgrade
8. Introduction
this write up will show you how to swap out your sissy 55-60 amp factory alternator for a beastly 130 amp alternator from a 95 mustang cobra.

items needed:
metric socket set 10, 12,14
metric wrenches 10,12,14
wire crimpers
butt connectors or crimp caps
1995 ford mustang COBRA alternator ( 139.99 + 30.00 core)
alternator plug from donor vehicle with about 6-8" of leads left on for wiring
you will need to either reuse your stock pully or find one in the junkyard to use the v belt as the ford alternator comes with a serpentine belt pulley
A 38" BELT TO REPLACE THE FACTORY 37" BELT (16.99)
another bolt the same size as the factory bottom bolt along with another nut

***you can either rob a mustang or tbird (1987-1990) from the junkyard to get the factory alternator plug ( i had a 1987 tbird with a 302/c6 tranny i'm using to swap engines into my truck... it happened to have the plug so i used it... otherwise you can hardwire it or get one from ford***

ok guys here goes.

1. jack the front of your b2200 up in the air and put it on jack stands.
2. pop the hood
3. disconnect the battery and remove it
4. slide up under the truck and remove the 4 14mm bolt holding the plate blocking access to the alternator
5. disconnect the alternator wiring from the back of the alternator
(there should be 1 plug with 2 wires and 1 plug with 1 wire as well as the wire going to the battery
6. loosen the 14mm nut at the bottom of the alternator
7. slide out from under the truck and remove the top adjusting bolt on the alternator
8. remove the bottom bolt and nut
9. slide alternator out from bottom (was easiest for me)

ok now for the fun part

10. there are 2 ways the wire up the new alternator either use a factory plug from the donor vehicle or physically hardwire the alternator. i recommend getting the plug.

there are 3 wires on the mazda side
red/white
white/black
yellow/green

there are 3 wires for the new alternator
A
S
I

THESE WIRES WERE ON MY VEHICLE BUT THE HAYNES MANUAL AS WELL AS THE AUTOZONE.COM WIRING DIAGRAM HAVE BLACK, BLACK/WHITE AS THE WIRE COLORS SO YOU WILL NEED TO METER THE WIRES BEFORE YOU HOOK THEM UP IF YOUR WIRE COLORS ARE DIFFERENT THAN THE ONES I HAVE LISTED.

WHEN METERING THE WIRES:
ONE WILL HAVE CONSTANT 12V POWER
ONE WILL HAVE 2-4 VOLTS CONSTANT POWER
ONE WILL ONLY HAVE POWER IN START OR RUN POSITION

MY PARTICULAR TRUCK WAS WIRED THIS WAY:
A = WHITE/BLACK
S = RED/WHITE
I = YELLOW GREEN

**CONNECT THE CHARGING LEAD TO THE ALTERNATOR LUG ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE THE ALTERNATOR MOUNTED AND TIGHTENED UP.**

11. YOU WILL NOTICE THE MOUNTING POINTS FOR THE ALTERNATOR ARE DIFFERENT ONE (THE BOTTOM) IS THICK/WIDE
THE TOP IS THIN/SHORT
BASICALLY YOU ARE GOING TO MOUNT THE ALTERNATOR UPSIDE DOWN WITH THE THIN MOUNT AT THE BOTTOM AND THE THICKER MOUNT AT THE TOP
12. SLIDE THE FACTORY BOTTOM BOLT THRU THE ALTERNATOR HOLE AND SNUG THE NUT ONTO THE BOLT.

13. YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FACTORY ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT BRACKET AND OPEN UP THE ADJUSTMENT HOLE ENOUGH TO ALLOW ANOTHER LONG BOLT (IDENTICAL TO THE FACTORY BOTTOM BOLT) TO SLIDE THRU IT WITH EASE.
14. YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO ADD EITHER A 3/8" SPACER OR WASHERS TO PUSH THE FACTORY ADJUSTMENT MOUNT FORWARD (TOWARDS THE BELT)
I HAPPENED TO HAVE A 3/8" SPACER AND WELDED IT TO THE FACTORY BRACKET.
15. AFTER YOU HAVE THE SPACER ADDED TO THE BRACKET THEN REINSTALL THE ALTERNATOR AS USUAL AND ADD THE NEW 38" BELT
ADJUST THE BELT TENSION AND TIGHTEN TO RECOMMENDED TORQUE.
16. CONNECT THE WIRE FROM THE BATTERY TO THE ALTERNATOR
17. PLUG IN (OR SLIDE THE FEMALE SPADES ONTO THE CONNECTOR) YOUR FACTORY WIRING TO THE COBRA ALTERNATOR
18. REINSTALL THE BATTERY
19. REINSTALL THE COVER UNDER THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK
20. REMOVE JACKSTANDS AND LOWER TRUCK
21. CRANK UP THE TRUCK AND USE A DMM (DIGITAL MULTIMETER) TO VERIFY THAT YOUR BATTERY IS CHARGING WITH THE TRUCK RUNNING
YOUR BATTERY SHOULD READ BETWEEN 13.6-14.7 VOLTS.


IF EVERYTHING IS CONNECTED PROPERLY THEN YOU HAVE SUCESSFULLY UPGRADED YOUR ALTERNATOR AND NOW YOU WONT BE HURTING FOR POWER BY TRYING TO RUN COMPRESSORS AND STEREO AMPLIFIERS OFF OF THE WEAK 55 AMP ORIGINAL.

Credits

Created By: audioinmotioninc

outkastdawg   +1y
will this also work on a b2600
audioinmotioninc   +1y
not sure since i am not looking at one in front of me.....it might... if you can get me a pic or 3 of your engine bay i will let you know... i just have to see your factory alternator mount. i believe they have the same engines and alternators so it might but if you can send pics i can make sure
elbine69   +1y
Pretty good write up. Needs some pics with it though.
outkastdawg   +1y
ill try to get some tomorrow
90-b22dawg [andrew]   +1y
looks to be a fairly easy swap.... and a nice write-up just would like to see a few pictures... a picture of this 13. YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FACTORY ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT BRACKET AND OPEN UP THE ADJUSTMENT HOLE ENOUGH TO ALLOW ANOTHER LONG BOLT (IDENTICAL TO THE FACTORY BOTTOM BOLT) TO SLIDE THRU IT WITH EASE.
audioinmotioninc   +1y
ok... the bracket that you bolt the top of your alternator to.... with the long oval hole to loosen or tighten the belt. you will use a die grinder to open it up a little. by "open it up" i mean it is too small for the long factory bolt to go thru it. so you have to enlarge the opening for the bolt to go thru the hole and be able to slide the length of the bracket to allow for adjustments of the alternator.
see the pic. the black area is the area needing to be opened up (enlarged)
audioinmotioninc   +1y
i'll post some "after" pics tomorrow
90-b22dawg [andrew]   +1y
cool... can't wait to get this mod done to my stock electric.... everytime the bass hits hard it dims the lights pretty bad...
audioinmotioninc   +1y
AS SOON AS I FIGURE OUT IF I'M DOING THE V8 SWAP OR THE WEBER/PACESETTER CONVERSION... I WILL BE RELOCATING MY BATTERY TO THE BACK AND ADDING 3 MORE AS WELL AND REGROUNDING MY ENTIRE TRUCK WITH 4GA WIRE. I'M GOING TO RUN 0 GA FROM THE STARTER TO EACH BATTERY. BUT THATS PROLLY GONNA HAPPEN IN2-3 MONTHS SEEING AS I GOT SOME THINGS TO TAKE CARE OF AND I AT LEAST WANNA DRIVE MY TRUCK TO DAYTONA.
noridetoolow   +1y
i agree, pretty good write up....make this sound like a 20 minute mod and is DEF something the B series needs