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My October 2011 B2200 Engine Rebuild

Last Updated: Feb 24, 2015
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My October 2011 B2200 Engine Rebuild, salvaged from my MazdaTrucking.com thread. At 182,900 miles, my 1988 B2200 Cab Plus was smoking too much and burning/using oil, time to "go in" and be environmental. Oh yeah - need to add that I purchased new NPR pistons, rings, and bearings from online retailer. I bought a few exhaust gaskets locally, and the Mazda bypass hoses locally as well. The original two heater hoses were replaced with Gates hoses from Rock Auto, and I used Fel-Pro head gasket set from them as well. Rock Auto also provided the flexible lower clutch line, which I replaced when my slave cylinder (local lifetime warranty) started leaking in the middle of all this. Cylinder head was machined locally ($260), used my existing lifters. Hone and ring compressor were loaners from AutoZone.

Out of pocket cost was about $700. It took me 1.5 days to dismantle and get the cylinder heads and the connecting rods/pistons to the machine shop, who also hung those. It took me 2.5 days to put together, but that also includes fussin' with the vacuum leak under the Weber carb, I had tried to re-use those gaskets once too many times.


Before starting, I got my calculator and camera phone ready.

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Before starting.
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Pan and baffle off; looked pretty clean, and no junk in the oil pan at all:
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My old broken fan shroud:
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New (parts yard) top and old fan shroud bottom:
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"New" fan shroud overlaid on the Murray 2-row radiator. Red arrows show Murray shroud mounting holes. Blue arrows show where I drilled my own 1/4 inch holes, so I can use 6.0mm x 1.0mm bolts/nuts.
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My engine set to TDC for #1
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My Weber/adapters/intake manifold taken off as a unit (those 12mm gear wrenches are great). The two arrows point to the small 8mm i.d. bypass hoses that I need to buy new.
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Fan bracket removed and timing belt off camshaft pulley.
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Underside of valve cover after baffle removed. I'll need to get a new PCV grommet.
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Rocker arms and under valve cover.
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Cylinder head off.
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Second view of engine block
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Underside of cylinder head. I don't see any cracks (good).
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Oil rings stuck in piston groove, source of oil getting into and/or staying in cylinder
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Also, I could still see the original honing marks on the cylinders, and there was no ridge.
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Bearings looked in great shape for 183K miles !!!
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Crankshaft journals also looked real good, not getting this reground or doing new main bearings
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Refurbished cylinder head back from the shop
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I had to remove the rocker arms to add sealant and assembly lube
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Cylinder head front piece added with camshaft seal and
camshaft gear
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Intake manifold and Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor back on
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Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor with EGR block-off plate
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New piston and rings v. old piston. Again note that oil control ring is not out any further than the piston on the old
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Engine block before light honing with electric drill
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After honing with electric drill, hone marks visible
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Using wooden dowels to keep head gasket aligned and to
aid cylinder head alignment
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Cylinder head, valve cover, timing belt installed
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Finished view of engine compartment: The B2200 runs good, NO SMOKE, and no leaks so far.
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Had big-time stalling issue after starting up, traced to vacuum leak under carburetor, as I had re-used (too many times) the carburetor base gasket. New gaskets are available only from California or NY, so I bought this rubberized gasket material and made my own
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The garage space where I did all this.
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Workbench after completion, before cleaning up. Note oil spill of

Credits

Created By: Cusser

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baha   +1y
Very nice write up! This will help a lot of people out!
jenko   +1y
That was beautiful
Engine feeling old? Tickle it up like this... talk about good condition though!
Cusser   +1y
Oh yeah - need to add that I purchased new NPR pistons, rings, and bearings from online retailer. I bought a few exhaust gaskets locally, and the Mazda bypass hoses locally as well. The original two heater hoses were replaced with Gates hoses from Rock Auto, and I used Fel-Pro head gasket set from them as well. Rock Auto also provided the flexible lower clutch line, which I replaced when my slave cylinder (local lifetime warranty) started leaking in the middle of all this. Cylinder head was machined locally ($260), used my existing lifters. Hone and ring compressor were loaners from AutoZone.

Out of pocket cost was about $700. It took me 1.5 days to dismantle and get the cylinder heads and the connecting rods/pistons to the machine shop, who also hung those. It took me 2.5 days to put together, but that also includes fussin' with the vacuum leak under the Weber carb, I had tried to re-use those gaskets once too many times.
skrapinsask   +1y
Great to see some rebuild information!
Good thread!
Cusser   +1y



Feb. 2012 completed stereo installation of the CD-cassette unit. So after finally learning how to work the $%^&$#%^#%^&^ thing, I like it, works good. I've only taken off the faceplate about 4 times, when I've been away from it for a while like while downtown for diamondbacks game.

I haven't updated my speakers in about a dozen years, may do that with some newer 4 inch speakers.
Cusser   +1y
OK, this month is my truck's 25th birthday, so time for an update (1988 Cab Plus built in Oct. 1987).

Yes, I did retorque the cylinder head bolts at about 500 miles, and changed the oil then as well. I've been good at changing the oil every 3 - 3.5K miles, so far have about 8K miles on the engine after the rebuild, 191K total. I'm still smokeless, and the spark plugs are clean, so really good. I'm leaking a little oil, last weekend re-sealed the mechanical fuel pump base with a rubberized gasket I made plus some Permatex Aviation (instead of the RTV I used at the rebuild), so far no leaks there. I did not replace the lifters, and they still occasionally tick. Mrs. Cusser and I took the B2200 on vacation last week, see " target="_blank .

So for the $700 out-of-pocket cost and a few vacation days, I have to say this was a very successful project.
robzilla   +1y
This is a nice write up! It sounds like you just purchased individual parts instead of a rebuild kit. Was that more cost effective?
Cusser   +1y



I bought the Fel-Pro head gasket kit from RockAuto, but also available locally. Its part number was #HS 9572 PT-1.

I purchased new NPR pistons, rings, and bearings from online retailer. I bought a few exhaust gaskets locally, and the Mazda bypass hoses locally as well. The original two heater hoses were replaced with Gates hoses from Rock Auto, and I used Fel-Pro head gasket set from them as well. Get a new timing belt if yours has more than 20K or so on it, and get good brand, like factory or Gates (I used Gates).

I bought the standard size NPR pistons, rings, and connecting rod and main bearings as a set from an Ebay retailer; I did not use the main bearings, as my engine journals and CR bearings looked so good. I bought from Ebay retailer Mizumoauto

I filled in other stuff new that I wanted, such as bypass rubber hoses, heater hoses, and front catalytic converter gaskets from local, as it appears that Fel-Pro assumes that you will not be separating the exhaust manifold from the front converter.

exhaust gaskets Pre-converter gasket (top of front converter) - FEL-PRO Part number is 60534
(Special order Autozone or O'Reilly)
Bottom Pre-converter gasket (3-hole) Fel-Pro 60286 (stocked at Autozone $3.49)

Exhaust pipes, second converter, muffler, etc. (need three or four)
robzilla   +1y
Thanks for the info!! I was looking at that same eBay retailer. I will keep that one in mind.
itfitz98   +1y
Nice vert in the garage...
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