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B2200 fuel sender replacement

Last Updated: Feb 24, 2015
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OK, this is my fuel sender replacement thread. I cleaned/bent mine a few years to restore its operation, and it became intermittent again. So Mrs. Cusser bought me a factory sending unit from board sponsor Dan Atkins ( " target="_blank) for my birthday (and Dan and his mother even included a birthday card, thanks !!!).
OK, mine's a 1988 B2200 Cab Plus; there are different sending units for the various models so provide Dan with your VIN.

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Disconnect cable release and pull rearward through the hole, and loosen the cable clamps on the hoses that connect on the metal fuel filler.
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Remove the three 17mm-head bolts on the passenger side bed frame. Loosen the corresponding bolts on the driver's side, about about 2/3 of the way.
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Use a 16 inch 2 x 4 on a floor jack to lift up the passenger side of the bed. Tighten the jack, tilt the bed up a little.
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Disconnect the two rubber hoses at the gas fill assembly; I used a large whale-shaped Vise-Grips #LC-12 to loosen/remove the larger one.
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Jack up the truck bed more. Remove the two hose clamps and hoses.
Remove the electrical connector. Loosen the sending unit attaching screws.
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I already have 7mm head hex head screws from Ace Hardware (4mm thread x 8mm long, with a wavy washer) on my sending unit from last time, recommend that. If you have the stock screws, use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, with 1/4 inch socket and a #2 Phillips bit (and two hands to hold it straight). Then lift out the old sending unit, tilting it for clearance.
Comparison of old and new sending units.
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Checking ohms; there were "open" regions on the old sending unit with no resistance as I moved the float through the arc. New factory unit was graduated resistance, like it should be, with no "opens".
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New sender installed, using the new rubber gasket which was included. New fuel sock, also from Dan Atkins used, as the stock one wouldn't stay on any longer.
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Photo of inside of fuel tank, using special inspection camera, a gift from daughter. Photo shows no rust or debris, GOOD !!!
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After lowering the truck bed a little to attach the two fuel filler hoses, I lowered the bed further then lined up the bed so I could get the three 17mm head bolts back in on the passenger side (I used my weight to shift the bed a little from one side to the other).
If one was going to try to clean the old unit and bend the contact arm (like I did a few years ago), do NOT remove the two screws. Pry back the three little tabs and slide the cover off for access.
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Credits

Created By: Cusser

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jaybur   +1y
I used a similar method, but I did not disconnect the hose from the filler, just the filler assembly from the bed.

I removed 5 of the 6 bolts, left the driver rear bolt in just a few threads so the bed would not be pushed off the frame.

I put a 2x4 on top of a 4x4 and put it between the frame and bed for a little insurance policy, but the jack held the bed up the whole time. There was just enough room to do the swap, and I also replaced all the fuel hoses at the same time.

oh, and clean the area thoroughly before removing the old unit. I had plenty of dirt around that unit. I was able to use a compressor to blow stuff away.

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