F
new to mazdas..
impulse
+1y
Originally posted by Russ-D
Originally posted by DATSLO
so why is everyone sayin not to run lower tube arms??? i can't see them being an issue at all....
Not tube lower arms, LOWERED lower control arms, like the ones lAim sells.
The reason is geometry, a lowered arm is engineered for proper camber at low ride heights, not engineered to work with bags. You can make them work with bags, but spindles are easier to work with, even though they push the wheel out.
tube arms = a-ok.
with that said russ.... is it best to run tubular arms and spindals? or just one or the other...
either way which do you recommened.
Originally posted by DATSLO
so why is everyone sayin not to run lower tube arms??? i can't see them being an issue at all....
Not tube lower arms, LOWERED lower control arms, like the ones lAim sells.
The reason is geometry, a lowered arm is engineered for proper camber at low ride heights, not engineered to work with bags. You can make them work with bags, but spindles are easier to work with, even though they push the wheel out.
tube arms = a-ok.
with that said russ.... is it best to run tubular arms and spindals? or just one or the other...
either way which do you recommened.
dssur
+1y
sorry, I have never had tube arms, so I cant speak with any experience. Spindles push the wheels out, which kind of sucks, but you can get the right wheels and thats a non issue.
One nice thing about the wheels being pushed out though is that it wont hit the clutch master. lol.
I have tried for a week to order Mazda KW arms for toyo spindles lol. They are all in Vegas sweating axle bangers though.. Damn SEMA haha.
Anyway, MadLowMazda has KW arms and drop spindles, so I think the advantage of tube arms is really just getting rid of the strut arm. Jim could probably tell you for sure though.
One nice thing about the wheels being pushed out though is that it wont hit the clutch master. lol.
I have tried for a week to order Mazda KW arms for toyo spindles lol. They are all in Vegas sweating axle bangers though.. Damn SEMA haha.
Anyway, MadLowMazda has KW arms and drop spindles, so I think the advantage of tube arms is really just getting rid of the strut arm. Jim could probably tell you for sure though.
impulse
+1y
Alright... thanks Russ... i'll talk to MadLowMazda...
damn sema I wish i had been able to go again this year.
damn sema I wish i had been able to go again this year.
down2earthdawg
+1y
GO wit the Kustom Werks arms they are the shit I got ones that fit the AIM spindles.they are a bit of a pain to install but well worth it gettin rid of the strut rod lays the front out frikin hard. I gots pics up in my profile as fer the 5 lug swap they do make the arms to fit the yota spindle they are now a true Kustom order they stoped mass poduction to cut cost I think? any way no complaints with the arms heres a tip the front stock shock mounts that are on the frame inbetween the two arms needs to be cut out for clearance and if your settin up fer 20s on a sfbd you got to notch out that part of the frame just a little. After rebuilding my truck with my friend for 4 months I got to know my truck real well I have nearly memorixed the chiltons manual well not realy but Im real familiar with the fuel system. hope the info helps and agian any ???? check out my profile or Russ Ds and if you wanna see a sick sfbd check out waynes b2200 I think his profile is draggednbagged? I might be wrong.
maddawg
+1y
theses are only suggestions for layin' the front (this is by no means the only way nor the best way to accomplish this)
1) notch the frame and bring
the bag in as far as possible.
this will keep that upper ball joint
away from the bag when aired up.
2) if your going to use spindles (which i recommened) i highly recommend at least a 7" backspcing on an 8.5 rim (7.5 backspacing would be even better).if you decide on useing toy spindles i can't help you there because i don't know how that changes the track width (if any).
3)you can easily lay your front end out with the stock upper and lowwer control arms, but the tubulars are really cool beacause they eliminate the strut rod and they are made to order, meaning ,they can be ordered in shorter lengths and made to take whatever balljoints you need on them to fit whatever spindle you wish to use.
4)you can stuff a big bag in there but i find it un-nessesary as the rs 62 will lift up high enough to bind your stock ball joints which is as high as you can go.
of course you will need to cut and re-locate anything that is in the way.
shorting upper and lowwer control arms will help if you have less backspaceing.
the specs i gave will keep your wheels clear from cooking fender sides thus dragable. you can lay out with less backspacing but you will most likely
be cookin' stuff unless of course you shorten the track width.
oh yeah ...your wireng harness will definately have to be re-located.
1) notch the frame and bring
the bag in as far as possible.
this will keep that upper ball joint
away from the bag when aired up.
2) if your going to use spindles (which i recommened) i highly recommend at least a 7" backspcing on an 8.5 rim (7.5 backspacing would be even better).if you decide on useing toy spindles i can't help you there because i don't know how that changes the track width (if any).
3)you can easily lay your front end out with the stock upper and lowwer control arms, but the tubulars are really cool beacause they eliminate the strut rod and they are made to order, meaning ,they can be ordered in shorter lengths and made to take whatever balljoints you need on them to fit whatever spindle you wish to use.
4)you can stuff a big bag in there but i find it un-nessesary as the rs 62 will lift up high enough to bind your stock ball joints which is as high as you can go.
of course you will need to cut and re-locate anything that is in the way.
shorting upper and lowwer control arms will help if you have less backspaceing.
the specs i gave will keep your wheels clear from cooking fender sides thus dragable. you can lay out with less backspacing but you will most likely
be cookin' stuff unless of course you shorten the track width.
oh yeah ...your wireng harness will definately have to be re-located.
maddawg
+1y
kustom werks and byc makes the tubulars.
F
fuller
+1y
ok, i've gathered some info from this post and searching others..i've come to the idea(for now its what i wanna go with) is to go with tube arms with drop toy arms...would it be possible to get the arms built to where i can lay out with a basic sized 20(like i could get in any chrome wheel)?i dunno where to begin to get the right measurments to get this setup..so those are the parts i am lookin into, so who can i talk to about the arms being shortened or whatever? could some1 from kustomworks or mike at byc hook me up with an answer on this? or do any of you guys know? i'm just tryin to figure all this front stuff out before i get started.
impulse
+1y
what size rubber you guys runnin on the 20's.
maddawg
+1y
you asked so i'll tell ya,
345/25/20 in the rear
225/30/20 up front,also
285/30/20 in the rear and
225/35/20 up front.
i've got 2 sets of 20's i use.
345/25/20 in the rear
225/30/20 up front,also
285/30/20 in the rear and
225/35/20 up front.
i've got 2 sets of 20's i use.