K
99 F150 bagging tips
thebagged1
+1y
very true... ford are poo to work on and more expensive... but deffiantly well worth it in the end.. im not sure what the spindles will actually do when bagging... i was one of the first to get em but of course i had no time to mess with it, see what it would do.. im trying to clear a 32' tall tire up front and i needed the spindle plus HEAVY modded djm upper and lowers .. but i still think you gotta knotch the frame for tie rods?
jmn444
+1y
Originally posted by BaggedDogs
we tried the beltech spindles and they suck for bagging, the create issues with the lower control arms hitting the frame before it lays out on 22s unlike if you flip the ball joints... Just save the $200 that they cost and get you $40 worth of ball joints...
I'm not sure I understand that... they shouldn't affect when the lca hits at all. If you can lay w/ a 2" drop djm lca, then why would this be any different? your just getting 2 more inches of drop from either setup as far as i can tell, but saving the camber a little with a spindle... What exactly does putting the spindles on do that causes the lca's to hit sooner?
we tried the beltech spindles and they suck for bagging, the create issues with the lower control arms hitting the frame before it lays out on 22s unlike if you flip the ball joints... Just save the $200 that they cost and get you $40 worth of ball joints...
I'm not sure I understand that... they shouldn't affect when the lca hits at all. If you can lay w/ a 2" drop djm lca, then why would this be any different? your just getting 2 more inches of drop from either setup as far as i can tell, but saving the camber a little with a spindle... What exactly does putting the spindles on do that causes the lca's to hit sooner?
baggeddogs
+1y
with flipping the ball joints you dont have to notch for the tie rod ends... I redid one on 23s and it had to be notch and when we did the one on 26s it really had to be cut the fuck up..LOL
cpt
+1y
Edited: 9/17/2005 12:54:53 PM by cpt
Do Not flip ur ball joints its kinda ghetto. I dunno much about the new spindle, it would probably make things alot easier but if u go with just the a arms, u should 1. raise the lower ball joint. 2. Get the upper a arm kit that raises the mounting point of the upper a arm. (kustomworks i think sells it) 3. notch the frame or the steering tie rod will hit.
I say get the spindle it should save u alot of work. I doubt the spindle will make ur lower arm hit ground. Even if it does, u dont really need the spring pocket, u can easily bag the truck if u ditch the spring pocket and plate the bottom of the arm.
I have just the DJM arms that have the lower ball joints raised and a notched frame. Lays fine but cambers a ton.
Dave
Do Not flip ur ball joints its kinda ghetto. I dunno much about the new spindle, it would probably make things alot easier but if u go with just the a arms, u should 1. raise the lower ball joint. 2. Get the upper a arm kit that raises the mounting point of the upper a arm. (kustomworks i think sells it) 3. notch the frame or the steering tie rod will hit.
I say get the spindle it should save u alot of work. I doubt the spindle will make ur lower arm hit ground. Even if it does, u dont really need the spring pocket, u can easily bag the truck if u ditch the spring pocket and plate the bottom of the arm.
I have just the DJM arms that have the lower ball joints raised and a notched frame. Lays fine but cambers a ton.
Dave
myturn
+1y
Sorry Dave(cpt) - but flipping the lower balljoints...i mean swapping the lower balljoints to 1/2 ton chevy lower balljoints and pointing them in an upward fashion is the best thing to do. The lower balljoint in the spindles has to be reamed the opposite direction or a tapered bushing pressed in. The upper can either be flipped and swapped side to side with the spindle reamed the opposite direction or you can raise the upper arm mounting point. The tie-rod ends also have to be flipped and reamed to realign them with the lower control arm. We have done both on various FORD's and have had ZERO problems.
http://www.kustomfab.com/gallery/photos/328200474549PM6081.jpg
Very little camber and no steering or toe problems.
http://www.kustomfab.com/gallery/photos/328200474549PM6081.jpg
Very little camber and no steering or toe problems.
NaviGangsta
+1y
:werd: Id flip the balljoints if your running 22's or bigger .... just remem that once you do this, you can no longer run a wheel smaller then a 20..
jmn444
+1y
I guess I still don't know why flipping the balls is "better" than spindles other than the cost... I'm on 22's, but I'd personally like the option to throw stock rims on it so that will probably push me to the spindles...
cpt
+1y
I know flipping ball joints has been done, i guess personally I dont like the whole weight of my truck pulling on a ball joint. Im pretty sure u can't run stock rims with spindles, they prolly need 18s or bigger. If u raise the ball joint u dont have to buy any other ball joints or redrill the spindle also u can run stock rims.
Dave
Dave
LesserFord
+1y
Edited: 9/18/2005 8:57:25 AM by LesserFord
Dave, how's your ride height with 22's and all that camber? I don't think it really matters how much it cambers when laid out, just when it affects the ride height.
Andrew
Dave, how's your ride height with 22's and all that camber? I don't think it really matters how much it cambers when laid out, just when it affects the ride height.
Andrew
cpt
+1y
At ride height theres is no camber problem. Even a few inches up its straightens out alot. Problem with the camber is the upper arm pretty much runs out of travel. When layed out its almost str8 up and down. I would run the upper arm relocator but i moved the mounting points for the a arms in and inch or so for extra turn clearance, the arm would probably hit the header with the kit...