I doubt it, if you are only like 3" you can notch the control arm and just replate it. If you are more then that you will probably need to use a heim and a u-joint.
draggin87yota
+1y
ya i spoke to a buddy of mine with a bd yota and he notched and replated his,he sed if i pay for the wire and gas hell do it.
draggin87yota
+1y
little update,today i took apart the front end and cut the frame horns,and then i got a little anxious and mocked everything up with zip ties lol so its not really lined up and the hood doesnt close lol
skip
+1y
looks good man!
draggin87yota
+1y
i kno seths back wall is smoothed out,im not sure who elses but since ima be driving it for a while with no bed,i wanna smooth out the back wall,do u jus cut it all out and put sheet metal there?
kdcgrohl
+1y
If you cut it completely out, you should probably use heavy gauge stuff. If memory serves, seth's is 1/8". You probably don't need that heavy tho, but close.
twisted minis
+1y
I skinned over my back wall with 16 gauge and plug welded it. I removed that large hump protruding into the cab, which is somewhat structural, so I replaced it with 14 gauge. If I were to do it again, I would do it this way (again) because its simple, clean, and strong.
twisted minis
+1y
Looks good BTW. What is your hood hitting on? Usually its the intake elbow or the cap on the valve cover.
draggin87yota
+1y
thanks man,i kinda figured that you skinned it, i got bunch of 16 gauge sheetmetal(15x5ft lol),the hood when its actually bolted hits the cap on the valve cover.seth,with ur motor mounts do i have to section the oil pan?