cutting your frame in half for a 2in body drop?

You can bodydrop it to the pinch molding with 20's, but if you try to go lower you'll be hitting the hood with the wheels. This will give you about a 2 3/4" bodydrop. All trucks are not the same. So its hard to tell exact measurment.

ok ill check into that. i am runnin a 245/30/20 tire. im just tryin to figure out the best way i could bodydrop it an the fastest way also. i have drug almost the whole bottom side of the frame off

The fastest way would be a traditional bodydrop for 2 reasons. You wont need to move anything under the cab, because the space will stay the same. And you wont have to seperate the body from the frame to cut off the frame that you would be removing. Traditional is: cut, drop, fill. Your truck is already Z'd, so you could be done with this project in around 2 days, depending on what you do with the bed. And wether or not you have dropped motor mounts, which you can get for Twisted Minis. I got all of my filler pieces pre-cut to fit from the local Metal Supply. Just had to drop them in and weld. My bodydrop took me 1 day on the cab, and 1 day on the bed. Around 10-12 hours a day with alot of breaks. Hardest part about the whole project was the clutch master. It would be hitting your 20" real bad. I seperated the clutch pedal from the pedal mounting plate and reconfigured mine to work backwards, then used a remote fluid resevoir for the fluid, which is located inside my dash. Im happy with the way everything came out, and my welding skills have improved greatly because I did the project myself. Money saved and skills earned.

ok thanks for the info n2bnlow

i was just thinkin bout cuttin the bottom of the frame rail off an replate it up. cuz i have drug all the way thru on the passenger side. would that be a good deal to do

The normal way to do a stock floor would be to cut the top of the frame off. So the body sits lower, not the chassis. Im not a big fan of the 2x2 frame. Ive seen 2, 2"x2" frames ( Which were both re-enforced and boxed) that flex so much the bed and cab touch when they moved. The strength in the frame is that it is taller than it is wide. Preventing the weight of the truck, and gravity from making the frame flex or bend. Cutting the bottom of your frame off would also defeat the purpose of your Z'd clip. And your truck may not be able to lay out 2 inches lower. Like at the lower control arms, bag mounts, notch, 4link, and shock mounts.
I'd plate the bottom of your frame with 1/4" steel that is the same size as the frame rail, since you like to drag. Should take alot of dragging to go through that. Then do a traditional bd. In that order, so you are accounting for the extra 1/4" of steel. This IS the easy way. And this way you wont have to move or re-engineer and suspension or steering components.

ok i see what you are kinda sayin. it actually dont take me long at all to drag thru 1/2" at all. a few weeks ago i took an welded 1/2" plates on the bottom an in 20 or 30 mins i had drug all the way thru it like it was no problem.
To do a 2x2 you can make it have strenght you would just have to go down the frame rails an have plug welgs that should strengthen it up plenty wouldnt you think so. an i would prolly have to Z it more than what it is now. i would think so anyways

Yes plug welds will make it stronger, and Im sure there are plenty of chopped down frames that dont flex. The problem is that you wont know till its done. Not to mention the other shit with your truck having to lay 2"s lower. And being on 20"s. I recomend not cutting the bottom of the frame off. I know this might sound like a good idea, but there are too many other things involved. Do you have 2-2 1/2" clearance for everything to sit lower? Is there room for your control arms to move up another 2"? Is there room for your shocks to collapse another 2"? Is there another 2" between your axel and step notch? Will your bags be able to collapse another 2"? and I think its more like 2 1/2" anyway. You would have to Z it again, re-bag the rear and probably re-do the notch. Then you still have a comprimised frame rail under your cab. The other way is faster, easier, smarter, sexier, less selfish, and a better dancer.

ok thanks for the info. i see where you are goin at. what should i do if i was to traditional it. what would you do on the bed cuz i really dont want to cut the bed up.

What I would do is cut 2"-3" off the top of the inner bed wall on the sides, and then down the steak pockets in the front and near the tailgate, and straight across the bottom seam on the front part of the bed, and straight across the back about 2" in from the edge of the bed above the roll pan. This will move your wheelwells and bed floor up at the same time. If you cut off more than you are bodydropping your truck, you will need to run spacers at the bed mounts. Just a tip, cross bracing and cross measurments will help make sure your bed stays square and plum while its cut. With the bed, your options are full sheet metal custom bed and sidewalls with custom wheelwells, cut the floor out completely, or raised bed floor. The raised bed floor will look the most un-touched, or stock. It sounds like a pain but isnt that bad really.