HELP INFO NEEDED CRANK SNOUT broke

ok heard this happens to mazdas well it happed to mine today wondering if i could get some info or gain some knowlege i have the haynes book but donno where to start the motor ran fine up until this happened has 160,xxx on truck and motor priced a crank kit at autozone 220.00 and advance auto 170.00 says comes with main and rod bearings but its remaufactured gonna call a machine shop that sells cranks and stuff monday questions i have are

1. should i or do i have to rebuild the complete motor??? before all this happened i had a timing issue so i checked everything the compression was execellent on all 4 pistons also has new valve seals with a valve job also dont burn oil

2. i never rebuilt a motor but im gonna try if i have to also never put in a crank i think i know the basics check for scoring ect. on the crank?


anyone have any info that would help this go smoother would be greatly appreciated and also where would be the route to go in getting a new crank besides the stealership if its even available thanks again everyone

Sorry to hear that man do you have any pics of what it looks like after it happened?

Dude, if you have never done major engine rebuilding, you are trying to doggie paddle in the North Atlantic Ocean.

Your lack of experience will turn this particular job into the sorriest waste of time you will ever regret.

If you have a 2.0 motor, go buy a shortblock, and dump the worn out engine for a fresh everything inside of six hours and be done with it.

If you have a 2.2 motor, go buy a shortblock, and dump the worn out engine for a fresh everything inside of six hours and be done with it.

^^^^ that might just be the worst advice i have ever heard of. what happened to go buy your self a manual and take your time and double check everything? fuck theres a lot of negative people here... man, just go buy a manual, order a complete rebuild kit, and the crank kit. and go to work! just take your time, and im sure you will learn tons of stuff! if you have any questions, ask!! i will be more than happy to guide you along the way, or go to your local mahine shop, and im sure the guy there would be helpful too. good luck

I have to agree with what ^^^^ said. Mazdatweaker how exactly did you get so good at working on engines and rebuilding them? it sure as hell wasnt just going to get a new engine and drop it in. You must learn how to do these things if you want to do them in the future. Dropping the crank and swapping the bearings is not that hard of a task. I would look through the manual to make sure it is something you think you are capable of handling. Do your research on what all it takes and what you can run in to and then get your hands dirty. If you need any help the people on here would gladly help you.




-Justin

Once again, good advice falls on deaf ears, or rather, gets shouted down by those who think more work must equal more fun.

This individual has never done this kind of work.

He is already having trouble which crankshaft kit is the best deal, and is soliciting advice.

I offered mine.

Free country, free speech, unlike the costs of redoing what someone else messed up.

Like whoever replaced the last timing belt forgot to torque the snout bolt enough.

Manuals cannot, and will never replace wisdom or attempts to save a novice from misplaced zeal.

Not ONE of these expert critics will be helping the original author of this post with any assistance when he gets in over his head.

All I was trying to do was save him some real grief.

Sometimes it is easier to buy apples than it is to wait until a tree grows some.

thanks for all the positive feedback and yeah i'll get some pics up shortly and yeah i already have the haynes repair manual bought it when i bought the truck i can read very well and this isnt my first rodeo just asking for information and i went over the section in the repair manual about replacing the crankshaft i have a dial indicator and i have to check the end-play of the crankshaft i can do so with either the dial indicator or feeler gauges which i have both what i was asking is my truck ran excellent before this happed and WHAT ALL STARTED THIS WAS I TOOK IT TO SOMEBODY TO DO THE TIMING BELT AND FOUND MY CRANKSHAFT KEY WAS ALMOST SHEERED OFF AND THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WAS ALL MESSED UP WENT TO THE SALVAGE YARD GOT A LIKE NEW PULLEY WITH A NEW KEY WAY AND HE INSTALLED IT AND RAN IT IN WITH A IMPACT WHICH I TALKED TO A FRIEND AND SAID U REALLY DONT WANNA RUN THE BOLT UP WITH A IMPACT THAT HOLDS THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY ON SO WITH THAT SAID I THINK THATS WHAT CAUSED IT BUT LETS TALK ABOUT MY PROBLEM AT HAND already got most the stuff outta the way to pull the motor and a question i have is that

1. DO ALL THEY SELL ARE REMANUFACTURED CRANKSHAFTS? (and does this mean they get the used ones that they take in as core charge and machine them and sell them again? reason i ask is because i see this prob with the cranshaft snout breaking on these mazdas and if im getting somebodys esles old referb. crankshaft i would rather go to the stealership?

and for ur mazdatweaker i can see where ur coming from due to u not knowing me and me not knowing u but this is a forum to ask questions i honestly would rather take my time and learn and do it myself just like me baggin my truck asked alot of questions on here and printed out alot of pictures but got damn its ridin on air as we speak and yeah i learned from my mistakes i took my truck to a idiot to do the timing belt which i thought would be hard and it caused more problems than i think if i woulda done it but u live and learn

oh heres my 1978 frame off resto chevy monte carlo with a 383 stroker blueprinted and balanced

Thank you for clarifying what you are needing.

That being said, yes if you take your time, you will reap the benefits of that patience.

The more you do of these things, the easier they become.

They are tractor motors, that have been built and hardened for automotive use.

If you have the time and you don't get ahead of yourself, you can enjoy the work. I do.

You can pull the crank from the bottom, while you are laying on your back underneath it. I roll these sleds up onto roll ups to do the in_frames.

You will need to pull the transmission back to get to the flywheel / flexplate.

And the Crank bolt must be tightened to about 180 ft/lbs to keep the pulley from wiggling around. It may be that the pulley was loose for awhile, and it opened up the keyway on the snout. Once that happens, you will never get it to sit still, no matter how tight you get it.

The 2.0 motors have less flywheel effect, so the pulley is MUCH heavier in mass, so they are really the problem childrens.

The 2.2 has a longer crankthrow, so the pulley doesn't need to add as much rotational mass. The 2.2 is far less likely to destroy its own crank.

If you have a 2.0, Kia can get you a brand new crank. The engine is the FE, same as the Mazdas.

I would check machine shops for reman costs, then maybe go the the parts yard with a micrometer and check your journal runouts. Sometimes you can find a really good bargain that way. I found a cam for like 8.00 with almost new journal surfaces.

So asklots of questions.

I M here to help.

John

thanks alot mazdatweaker yeah i did some calling today and got a price on a reman about 230.00 and thats from a machine shop he said all he needs is the old crank the front timing housing and the head and i asked why the head and he said i may have bent a valve i dont understand that part is he tryin to soak more money or is that right?

so i have a 2.2L mazda and went to the junkyard and scored (2) crank pulleys like new no play on the shaft or the key wasnt messed up quick question is there a difference between the 2.0 and the 2.2L on the crank timing pulley? it matches up and same amount of teeth (21) now i did notice on the 2.2L the crank bolt was longer than the 2.0 bolts does this matter?? like i said i grabbed both and also the front pulley for the belts on the crank the 2.0 is thicker than the 2.2L which i have but i got both gears crank bolts and keyways and the crank belt pulley for 5.00

also i told him that i hear alot of mazdas having this problem breaking the crank snout off and he said u wanna know why and i was like sure he said that the crank bolts are garbage on the mazdas and can get loose and then cause the pulley to sheer the keyway or and or worse break the snout? is this so? and if so is the crank bolt still available??? he also told me that autozone and advance sometimes get there cranks imported from mexico and said those are junk PLEASE IF U CAN ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED and im sorry if i came off bein a BUTTHOLE THANKS AGAIN

ok so i got my motor out and plugged it all up pressured cleaned the motor came out really good (better to work on a clean engine then a grease ball) i have a few questions to ask

1. talked to a machine shop and he said he wants to see the head to see if i bent any valves does this happen when the crank snout breaks off?? is there anyway to see if the valves are bent by rotating the camshaft or something?

heres some pictures of what im working with (its a damn shame too i just installed a indash and did the mod to move it up under the a/c vents still have to fill and mold the plastic around the housing also threw in the grant woodgrain <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D --> )