DadandSonEyes 1989 MAZDA B2600i 4X4 Cab Plus continues HELP

What I did was unbolt the engine mounts and put a chunk of wood under the flatest spot under the transmission and jack it up while making sure nothing is getting Hung up, this raised the engine far enough to replace my oil pan gasket so it might be enough to do what u need. Best of luck to ya

but the front end differential and 4x4(front) transfer case.....isn't that all connected to the Transmission and has to be unbolted from the main support bracket also?........

It'll pivot off the the trans mount and raise the engine but not a lot just about 2-3 inches

I would leave the trans/transfer case/driveshaft/shifters.....all of that alone, and unbolt the engine from the trans bell housing and use a hoist to remove the engine completely or enough to unbolt the oil pan......as Slamson has said.......it is way easier to leave all that trans stuff in place and just pull the engine.
You'll just need to remove the radiator to allow the engine to move forward a good bit so the input shaft (if it's a manual trans) can disengage from the clutch & pressure plate and allow the engine to raise up without pulling the trans up with it. This is a 2WD truck, but it will look similar to this.



Notice the floor jack under the bottom of the trans....



I actually placed a 1" x 1" steel tube under the trans bell housing that was long enough to span between and lay on top of, the two torsion bars so it would hold the trans up without the need of keeping the floor jack under it. This allowed me to push the truck around without having to hold up the trans also.

Ha! I found a picture that I had on MazdaTruckin.com that showed others how to do this.......but, this is a B2200 truck......R90Baron's to be exact! And I used a piece of 3/4" rigid pipe for this one, but a 2x4 will work also if you can finagle it in there.

Hey thanks ! This is great. My son and I will try this and see how it works out for us. Does ANYONE know how we can tell if our piston rings are good or bad by looking at our cylinder walls? See my other pictures of engine. Do the cylinders look ok ? or if the rings were leaking, wouldn't the walls be badly scorched or black looking ? I'm hoping the rings are ok. We may not do a full rebuild just yet, if we don't have to...

I don't see any pics of your pistons, do you have a link? Even better you can post them

HAS ANYONE OUT THERE, With 1989 B2600i 4X4 Every used the JIS Engine Rebuild kit or any gasket or engine parts from JIS ? ( SEE EBAY " target="_blank )

They have an Engine REBUILD KIT for this 2.6L Fuel Injected G6 Engine and I have no experience with JIS PARTS to know if they are EXCELLENT or if they are crap. If anyone has expertise, or has a better webpage or brand name they could suggest with the BEST ENGINE REBUILD KITS at the LOWEST PRICES, PLEASE Let me know on this thread.
Thanks,

I'm not a fan of the cheap E-bay kits.......I use Fel-Pro (or Mazda) for my gaskets, Sealed Power for pistons and rings, Melling or equivalent for oil pumps, and Clevite for bearings.

I know some have used the JIS kits and have had good results, but I won't.

With 160,000 miles on your engine and if your removing it from the engine bay, then I would check/measure the cylinders and then make a decision on whether to rebuild it or not. If it were me, I would at least install new std. sized bearings and rings (IF they're still standard sized.....the engine could have been rebuilt before, and if so, could have had the crank turned and/or the cylinders bored and fitted with larger pistons.....but not likely at 160,000 miles) after I cleaned everything up real good.
The pistons will have carbon and burnt oil stained on their sides and inside the ring grooves and all that needs to be sparkly clean before you install new rings.

The Mazda engines are built from very durable steel/iron and they wear excellent so it is possible that you can get away with doing this "quickie rebuild" and it wind up giving you another 100,000 worry free miles. I have a 230,000 mile G6 engine that I am doing that to right now.......no boring the cylinders, or turning the crank, and it will perform better than it was doing before I rebuilt it, and that was still very good.
The main thing is to measure what you have and look at the factory specs and make sure your falling under the maximum allowed on your tolerances. The end gap for the rings will be larger than the max allowed but it will be fine as long as your piston to wall clearance is NOT beyond the limit.......unless you order "file to fit" piston rings, your ring end gap will fall out of the max allowed, but not by much, and it won't burn a drop of oil. I have done this too many times and know this from experience.

If you can get some micrometers and a dial caliper, and do your measuring (it takes a little practice and measure things multiple times to make sure of your sizes), you will have a good idea about what kind of shape your engine is in.

If you are not going to pull the engine (just lift it some to get the pan off and do your chain work) then I would just take care of your timing chain problems, have the head redone, and put it together for now, and do a rebuild later on.

It's dinner time, but I will be back to elaborate on the G6's oil pump.......you don't want to buy one if you don't need it, and it ain't in that JIS rebuild kit, because they are more than the kit itself!

That's great to know. Thank you for the help and tips. My son an I tried to just unbolt engine mounts. Then tried to jack up tranny with block connected to it and raise it a bit. Made me extremely nervous that I would crack or break transmission housing. Anyway. It didn't budge the block. So lowered jack an inch. Decided to disconnect ALL transmission bolts and pull engine. Don't want to break anything.
Also, when I look closer at cylinder walls and pistons. Seems there is a little space between piston and cylinder walls But when I manually turned engine over before head removal to get to TDC heard what sounded and felt like tight compression on all 4.

Hey Axel Breaker EARL,

WE GOT THE ENGINE OUT !!!! YEAH !!!

Questions, PLease help --
1) Did you pull the Crank out and have your B2600i Engine Block cleaned by a shop? If so, did they have to remove bearings from Balance shafts? Otherwise, I don't know how to tell if my bearings have a lot of life left on CRANK or on the BALANCE Shafts(bearings).. One of the Balance shafts gears broke. The one on the left that has two gears in one.

2) We only want to put in new rings and pistons and crank bearings if it needs it. Truck has 161,000 miles on it, so not sure if anyone ever did it in the past. Is there a way to tell? We noticed that the bottom of CRANK Bearing brackets(that hold crank in), are number " 0 ", "1", "2", "2" one number on each one, and an ARROW on each one also. What does that mean?

3) If we buy pistons and rings and bearings. What recommended brands?

Thanks for any help.
DadandSonEyes -- Raleigh, NC