lowering leaf springs on b2200?

I was wondering if anyone has ever tried putting s10 lowering leaf springs on a mazda? I know a guy who has got a set for fairly cheap and there 3 inch drop. If they wont fit is there anything i can do too my stock leaf springs to make it lower without mono leafing?

This is what I did. I flipped the main leaf, added used 2 more leafs for a total of 3 leafs, plus the overload spring. Also running a 1" block. I have 1" of travel before it hits the frame rail.


Before


Also I should add I used late 60"s VW Bug rear shocks on the rear, and Isuzu pickup shocks on the front. And this is as low as I could go without cutting something on the truck. The front is 3 splines on the torsion bars, and no bump stops on the front or rear.

Given the difference in size and weight, even if the springs did fit, I'd say they would be way to stiff.
You can have your stock springs reset, you could even look into getting the spring place to reverse or Berlin your leaf spring eyes, reverse eye springs should give you about a 2 inch drop but with more travel than mono leafing or blocks.
I'm actually looking at building a jig to reset and reverse my own, its pretty simple, just labour intensive and time consuming.

Thank you for the replies. Im wanting more low without losing ride comfort. Now on reversing the main leaf mounts can you clarify more of what this does? Its much appreciated.

This is how I do it, I posted this in another thread, so I just copied and pasted it here. I hope this helps.
What I do when taking leaf springs apart is use 2 "C" clamps to hold the springs together, 1 on each side of the center bolt. After I remove the center bolt, I replace it with a long piece of all thread, about 12" long, 2 flat washers, and 2 nuts. If you have access to a welder, weld 1 nut to the all thread to make it a bolt, or double nut it. Once the all thread is in place, and tightened down, remove the 2 "C" clamps. Now you can start loosening the nut on the all thread until the tension is gone and the spring leafs are loose. You can remove the all thread now. Once you figure out how you want to stack your springs, you can use the all thread to put them back together. When the springs are tight, put the 2 "C" clamps back in place, remove the all thread, and put the center bolt back in.
I just finished lowering my 87 B2000. What I did was removed the leaf springs from the truck, disassembled them as described above, flipped the main leaf over, and installed 2 additional leafs for a total of 3 leafs, plus the overload spring. I then used a 1" block. This is how the trucks sits now.

I'm running 235/75/14 tires on the rear. I have about 1" of travel before the rearend hits the frame. It rides good. I've been doing it this way for years without any trouble. I'm running 195/75/14 tires on the front. I think the front needs to come down a little bit more, so I'll be playing with the torsion bar adjustment. Maybe lower it another 1/2 inch.

If you still want suspension travel and ride quality, I'd seriously look at getting a set of belltech rear springs or yours reset and reverse eyed.(belltechs are pretty much reverse eye FYI). Not as cheap as deans method. But will definitely be better for travel, ride comfort and load carrying ability (some of us still like to use our trucks to haul lol)

Thanks once again for the replies. It answers a lot of my questions. I think I'm going to reverse the leaf spring eyes with a press. Have you ever reversed them on your own? Is there a high risk of them cracking or breaking? but i think reversing the eyes will give me the low i want with the ride comfort i still want. Dean how much did you do your torsions in the front?

You can do them yourself, but obviously you need to exercise slot of care and caution as its spring steel and quite a bit of force involved.
It needs to be done gradually, I'll try and find the link to a tutorial I found elsewhere. It maps out the process pretty well.
There is a small danger of work hardening the springs by press reversing the eyes, which could lead to sagging or cracking later on, but I would expect it is no worse than mono leafing or even forcing the springs flat by bolting the overload spring on top of themain leaf.
Obviously best results will be by getting them done by a professional spring worker as they have a lot more experience and can also retemper the spring which should make it as good as new.

summitracing.com has lowering springs for the rear of our trucks. they are a bit pricey at 250 a pair. Don't know the quality as I haven't dealt with them but I thought I would just throw it out there.

So, explain to me why you won't do it the way I did it? I really don't care how you do it, but my way is basically free. If you want it lower, notch the frame and use 2" blocks, if you want it higher, don't use the 1" blocks. I wouldn't even try to reverse the eyes myself, and if you have a shop do it, it will cost you. Buying lowered springs will cost you too. I'm no young pup, and have been doing this stuff for a long time. I built an early 70's Courier that I did this to about 20 years ago. I drove it everywhere. I notched the frame, and it sat about 2.5" off the ground in the back, and about 2" off the ground in the front. I never had any problems with it, and I drove it every day. My S10 has the rear springs reversed, and it's been on the road close to 10 years. I drive it everywhere, it's my daily driver. Why not just try it my way, and if you don't like it, then change it. My Mazda rides like a stocker, just with less travel. If I wanted to cut on it, I could even fix that, but it's not a problem for me.
To answer your question about the front torsion bars, I indexed them 3 notches. The difference in ride height from the before picture and the after picture is 5". In the before picture the truck had 2" blocks in the rear, so if it was at stock height without the 2" blocks, I brought the rear down 7" from stock doing it my way. How ever you do it, make sure it's safe, and I hope you get the results you're looking for. Dean