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Mazda Lowering Static \  front end lowering options

front end lowering options

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 18
following 11
 
joeyaces   +1y
On my previous 91 reg-cab b2200 I put in some 3" blocks and cranked the tortions to match the block height, I had an inch or two of travel but I cut the bumpstops in half anyway, the ride was just horrable as im sure anyone who has messed with the torsions knows, I rode with it like that till the truck sadly passed on, but now I have a new one that I would like to keep a smooth ride in. What are my options in regards to lowering the front end without losing much comfort, I am planning on putting my old blocks in the rear because I don't know of any other way to lower it other than lose some leaves or get em straightened (which i dont want to do) I am planning on bagging a truck in the future but I want to wait till i graduate and get a job so i have the cash flow. Any help would be great, thanks,
Joe
framedragger   +1y
flip the ball joints on the front and c notch or step notch the back
joeyaces   +1y
would flipping the ball joints reduce the ride quality at all?
rollinslow   +1y
Flipping the ball joints won't kill the ride quality. What kills the ride quality is lowering it and not adding some drop shocks to the mix. I have a 90 b2600i with the torsions cranked down and some drop shocks and it rides smooth as silk. The back is a different story. Even with better shocks in the rear, the ride is still going to be a little harsher due to the blocks or whatever you throw in there. But definately replace the stock shocks in the front and find the smallest bumpstops you can and that will help a lot.
joeyaces   +1y
Are "drop shocks" designed specifically for a lowered truck, or are they just stiffer? Any suggestions on where to get the best deal? I didn't realize having blocks would reduce the ride quality, im assuming its tolerable? Even tho the ride was shitty before, I just figured it was the cranked torsions causing it. Thanks for the help,
Joe
mark   +1y
stiffness depends on the brand..toxic shocks sell different lengths for different amounts of drop, so you could get a really short shock if you need it. Toxic is known to be stiff though. i had them on my ranger in the front and it used to rub the inner fender everytime i hit a bump with stock shocks, but when i put the toxics in it helped it a lot
rollinslow   +1y
I have the toxic shocks on my tacoma and I like them alot. Little stiffer yes, but more like a sports car stiff. Better than bottoming out on bumpstops tho. I have the chassis tech shocks on my mazda and they give it a good ride too. They all run about $40 a shock. And yes they are shorter. As Mark mentioned they come in different lenghs so you can still have some shock travel to smooth out the bumps in the road.
slammed91b5000   +1y
Id have to say the best lowering option is bags and drop spindles. if you dont have much money just bag the front for now. it will lay frame and you will have better than stock ride quality, cuz its not LIKE driving on air, it IS driving on air. if thats too much $$ just get drop shocks, lower the torsions only like 2 inches and get 3 inch drop spindles.
joeyaces   +1y
Are drop spindles hard to install?, how much would a set cost me? How hard is it to take out a leaf?, is that the only other cheap method to lower the back? Sorry bout the twenty-question , im just eager to learn.
dawgpimp   +1y
they only make 2 inch drop spindles. if you use drop spindles, you can't run anything smaller then a 16 inch wheel.

have you ever worked on your brakes? have you ever changed ball joints? if so, you can install drop spindles.