Mazda temp gauge, overheating, temp sending unit issues....

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Mazda temp gauge, overheating, temp sending unit issues....
Cusser avatar
Cusser
+1y
21 ohms should give a high temperature reading on your temperature gauge. What does the laser temperature gun give when it does read 21 ohms? If NAPA states 48 ohms at operating temp, that's close to the 53.5 ohms at 176F that I posted this morning, sounds good. Your 21 ohms will deliver higher temp reading than "normal".
twisted avatar
twisted
+1y
Just to give an update, which isn't much of an update...

Discovered that autometer doesn't make an adapter to fit their temp sensor in the factory location so scrapped that idea.

Did boil the factory sender out of the truck this morning. 200 degrees was about 40ohms so seems that it is doing its job. Not a good sign.

I picked up the laser temp gun tonight and will be testing temps everywhere tommorrow. Will try a few other things like run no thermostat just to make sure the water pump is pumping.

Worse case is the water pump is bad (brand new) and will need replaced. A friend swapped it for me and said the impeller was a different type but should work. So its possible its bad.

If its the head its an easier swap as I just realized tonight that a friend has 2 extra heads. One of which is known to be good as he removed it from a running engine and the other we are pretty sure is good.
toddluck avatar
toddluck
+1y
good luck
pepehn avatar
pepehn
+1y
a trade for my truck should fix your temp problems...hahah jesus christ your truck is fuckin amazing.
twisted avatar
twisted
+1y
Still fighting it. Just to keep it short I have a laser temp gun and appears the truck is running hot. At idle the thermostat housing hangs out right around 194 degrees which makes sense cause when I checked the thermostat it was a 195 degree stat.

When driving it gets hotter and blows water out the overflow.

I flushed the radiator twice today with different types of flush with the same results.

To try and insure the new water pump is pumping I pulled the thermostat, drain the radiator just a bit so there is room, started it, and within 20 seconds I get foam.

So lets just say the head is in the back of my Jeep going to the machine shop tommorrow for a good once over.
hocbj23 avatar
hocbj23
+1y
Wait a minute.U have a 195 degree stat in ur truck and u r concerned that it is overheating at 194 degrees?Of course it is.Ur stat doesnt open until 195 degees! How could the truck do anything but overheat.Put the proper stat in it and see what happens.160/180 2 stage is what Maz calls for.BJ
twisted avatar
twisted
+1y


I'll be aquiring a 160/180 to put in. Is there a good online retailer I can order the proper one from?

Truck has had a 195 in it for years. May not be the right one, and I'll address that now that I know, but it has ran fine without overheating up untill now.

I had another friend who manages an autoparts store look up what thermostat the truck takes and his manual tells him a 194 degree stat. Why are all these parts stores wrong about which one it takes?
Cusser avatar
Cusser
+1y
I've seen plenty of parts listing wrong. I've seen three separate and different listings for refrigerant level in my 1994 Suburban. As Gilligan or Yogi stated: they can't all be right. I'd personally use the lower-temperature thermostat, want to get that coolant routing through the radiator.
twisted avatar
twisted
+1y
Where can I find this cooler running thermostat?

When I search online for an OEM replacement all I find is a Nippon 88C thermostat which is about 200 degrees I believe. If the B2000 is supposed to have the 160/180 wouldn't it show that as a factory replacement?
slammedyota91 avatar
slammedyota91
+1y




there ya go a 160degree thermostat...




this 180 is cheaper lol....