Bucking...Sputtering...Stalling..UGH

Ur timing is off.Check and be sure timing is set a 6 degrees BTDC.BJ

yeah fix your timing and set your idle to 750-800 rpm after it's warm.

mine had the same problme and mine FI. i thought it was the plugs so i changed them, the wires, cap, and rotor. still didnt run right. so i changed the PCV and air filter. i had it scanned, it turns out the idle was low so i got turned up which helped....for a week or so. i got fed up and scanned it at work and it was the coolant temp sensor (in the intake manifold close the the head). well sensors arent usually the problem so i took my truck home and was goin to check the continuity in the wires from the ecu to the sensor but the pcm is hidden under the inner fender and between the firewall but after all that trouble i had to go through it started to run normal. i decided to leave it and see how long it would last. its still good. after taking the connector off a couple of times my truck runs like a dream. i figure the connector must have been corroded enough to make it run horribly.

hope this helps.

between the firewall? huh? isn't the PCM inside the passenger kick panel?

Yep.BJ

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Mazdatweaker, would a FPR change the fuel output to air ratio when opening the throttle fully? I mean, dang, it would be nice to slam it and have the instant power!

im in the same boat man. little different though..i have a 93 b2200 and when its colder outside i get a miss in the motor right around 3000rpms ONLY in 3rd gear....any ideas?? changes wires,plugs, check dist.cap and all that good stuff...any advice let me know

ALSO was wanting to know how much trouble its gonna be to change the stock 2.2EFI to carb.??

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I run my mech. fuel pump on my weber 32/34 and I do not have what you would call too rich of a condition...

..and yes I did mean fuel regulator! Weber suggests to not go over 3.5 PSI MAX! My pump is 3.7 PSI. How much of a .2 PSI difference make?