At the end of my rope

A couple of possibilities. Assuming you are running the stock nikki carb the main idle speed could be set to low. When the engine is cold, the same would apply except it is called the high idle setting. I think the electric choke is adjustable which can be adjusted so that the choke does not open fully until the engine is warm. If I am guessing correctly, the idle mixture is not adjustable (sealed), If it is adjustable, then it is probably set to lean (probably trying to get things to pass).

With all the vacuum / electric emission controls (stock stuff), I wonder if any of that could be adding to your problem. I have a bunch of experience with a Weber, but did not do muck with the stock nikki (other than pullin it off). BJ? any thoughts?

Yeah a couple.The carb heater plate doesnt have a switch per se.It works off an ambient air sensor in the computer.Zac when I send u the air filter I will send u a carb heater plate.It installs under the carb and has a one wire red lead that has to be plugged up-real simple.The automatic choke is on the back side of the Nikki.Let the truck get cold,take the top of the air cleaner off,turn the switch ON (the choke is electric) and mash ur accelerator pedal down about 1/2 way.DO NOT START THE ENGINE.Go inspect the carb.The choke butterfly should be closed when u look down the carb throat.If not the choke is real easy to set.There are two set screws on the back of the choke loosen and turn the choke until the buterfly closes.Then retighten the set screws ,put ur air cleaner top on,and start the truck.It should start up,idle up to 1500-1700 RPM and stay there until it begins to warm up,AS it does the choke will let the rpm drop to about 1000 and then to proper rpm of 650-700.There is a fast idle switch but it is for trucks with A/CThe reuglar idle switch is a hex head slotted gold nut on the pass.rear of the nikki facing the fender well.All it does is adjust idle speed.Everthing else is sealed.Sorry for the long post.If u try to drive a 2200/2000 non-FI truck when it has not reached opn temp and the choke doesnt work,,it will stumble,fart and die.Nature of the beast.BJ

Thank you soo much BJ, I will try some of what you said. To deal with the carb problem I posted this:



I'll let you know how it goes and see if I can figure it out. As of now I belive thee carb heater is not on at all I think it was possibly fine before the mechanic touched it.

Zac

so man was you able to ever get your truck on the road? we need an update. i havent looked at your carb thread lately but did you get the carb situation figured out? im sure after all the help everyone gave you on the subject they would like to know the outcome.




-justin

Ummmm $250 for a cat PLUS labour is a rip off. I would go to someone new. You should be able to do the whole exhaust (cat back) for $250 with the labour and thats at full price. Exhaust pipe is about $100 for the prebent shit, $50-100 for the cat depending on what you use and an hour labour maby an hour and a half if its a real bitch but it should only be an hour.

As far as your other delema, I would try a new mechanic. He might have a new prespective on your problem and charge you less.

Hey guys, truck did still not pass e-test. I am working thru some suggestions and waiting for a replacement carb to come.

Zac

That's friggin retarded.

Walk in there,slap 2 bills down on the counter,tell him there's a 2-4 in the back of the truck and the truck passes.

how bad did it fail?