What kind of welder do you own?

I have a Lincoln Pro MIG 175 and a Lincoln Precision TIG 225.

I run .030 for anything 1/8+ on a 75/25 mix gas (which really shouldn't be a question, I doubt anyone here runs straight C02)

and the TIG is your typical straight argon... with filler rod. haha, I have quite an assortment of aluminum, stainless and steel filler rods

as for the Hobart 125 welding thick metal, i would STRONGLY suggest against it. The picture in the 3rd post really isn't a strong weld. It may or may not break. If you look at the weld profile, you can see its somewhat laying on top of the metal and has doesn't lay into it.

here is an example of what it should look like:


I know its not exactly the BEST example in the world, but it was in my photobucket and i've used it as an example of this before.

anyway: if you look at the picture i posted, you can see how it lays flat in the corner.

The hottest you can possibly get that welder to run will be with a .035 flux core wire running straight co2 gas. It will run really different then you're probably use to, but if you set it up right, its a CLEAN and smooth weld (after you clean off the flux slag of course)



... and my camera is out of commision, so no pictures for now

not the best pic, but mine is burned in just as much as yours, I'll go burn some 1/4" and get a better pic to prove it...lol

its hard to tell from those pics... but i still wouldn't suggest anything less then a 145 (or equivalent) for 1/4. and even that, i wouldn't do it much... you'll hit the duty cycle all the time trying to do much of it. You won't be able to do a set of 8-piece notches without having to stop and let the welder cool... unless you're a really slow welder. I myself am a welder/fabricator for a living, so i may weld faster then your average "do it yourselfer".

once did a set of 8-piece step notches from start to finish (including a bridge and bag mounts) in 4 1/2 hours

we just had a welder post yesterday.












-justin

hey man.... im a professional welder for a living lol...if you wanna use a smaller amp welder like the one you have....you can up your thickness capabilites by using .030 wire, preheat your work/metal with a torch and run multiple passes....run one root, one on each side of your root and one between those if needed...you can make it hold with a 110v welder if you use those tips

look up "Industrial Cab Company" i was one of 2 welder/fabricators for them before they just recently closed down....ive passed my national welders certification tests, our standard was so high we never once had 2 grind down a weld before the cab was painted....flawless lol

too much flash to see the bead clearly but.... that's what my 100hd can do, I am welding at a slower pace it took about 20 seconds to 3" I use 480v lincolns at work and it's a big difference going back and forth when I use mine all the time I can do much better passes.

at any rate if his hobart can weld as hot as mine than I would see no problem holding the link tabs on

I'm not saying a 110v welder can't do 1/4" just a 125a and a 100a are more/less hobby welders. I wouldn't go less then a 140/145a 110v welder for any 3/16-1/4 welding.

I'm one of the top welder/fabricators for Southeast Stairs and Rails. We build custom spiral stairs, curved stair's, J stairs, hand rails, etc... I've been doing aluminum hand rails for the past 2 months for a big appt. complex.

Hobart 187 on gas here.

hell yeah i agree but it can be done....ive built 5 fully aluminum cabs for "parcar" golf carts...its 5 of only maybe 7 ever built lol...aluminum is fun to learn lol