weber fpr question

is there any diagrams for installing weber 32/36 and is it a must to run a fpr at 3.5 cause i seen it says mazdas have a high flow and you need to decrease?any help would be great ty

I just did the install. I hate to say it, but I just had a thread up about it and a search would have turned that thread up. Anyway, because I hate telling people to use the search button I will tell you what you need to know anyway.

Pull every vaccum line off with the stock carb. Throw them all away except for the one running to the distributer. Basically the only shared lines from the stock carb and the webber are the vaccum advance line to the distributer, the fuel line runnig to the fuel pump, and the wire for the choke. As far as the fuel pressure regulator goes. You will need to buy one. I purchased mine from summit for $40 shipped. It is adjustable from 1-6lbs. It runs inline between the fuel pump and the carb inlet.
I was a little apprehensive before I started, but you really can't screw it up. The only thing still in question for me the the line from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. I am not sure whether to plug it, or leave it open.
The install is easy, don't sweat it.

thank you very much it was helpful ,and i did type it in search like 5x a diagram wasnt coming up lol or a good manual but this will work im gonna order one today thanks

some carbed Mazda's have 2.5-3.5 psi in tank electric fuel pumps.No problem.I am not sure what the in head mechanical ones deliver,but since they use the same carb,I would think about the same.FI mazdas (2.2 and 2.6) have 13-15 psi in tank pumps,so unless ur going to go from FI to Weber ( and why would u want to),I dont think u need to worry very much.I have an installation sheet for a 34/34 Weber I would be glad to copy and send u.It should be the same.bj

i have a mechanical one ,so maybe i can check specs somewhere ty

The stock pump flows 4.5 and above, it's not steady all the time either. and electric pump and regulator would be the best combo IMO. I used a holley regulator and got a pressure gauge. But I've seen people run without them and not causing any problems. You MAY run a bit rich though. There are some adjustments you can make to the float to handle the extra fuel pressure, but I'm not familiar with it and the amount of degrees it needs to be adjusted.
But like TRE5 mentioned, you can pretty much get rid of every hose except for what he mentioned and the pcv valve hose to the intake, brake booster to intake. you can leave the line that hooked up to the cannister open, but do a loop with a piece of hose so nothing clogs it up.

Here is a picture of my reg. set up.

awesome ty ,i just spoke to my friend he also said becuase i have a cell with a vent and mechanical fuel pump i shouldnt need one him and his friends dont use them ,but cant hurt he said so im gonna just get one that way i know its running right what should the mechanical be and what should i set it at im going today to buy one

It's easy, you losen the nut on the regulator, andwith the allen key you losen the hex bolt to lower pressure, screw in to increase pressure. then tighten the nut and you're doen, just like doing the lifters on the mechanical rocker arms or like tightening the slack on your steering wheel at the gear box. I have mine set at 2.5 this way when it isolates it never goes pass 3.5. The mechanical pumps isolate in pressure, meaning they are not steady. But it shouldn't be too much of a dragstic difference in pressure. othewise, get a new pump. another thing.... if you get the fuel pressure gauge, get the liquid filled kind, the needle will be steady instead of jumpy.

kool thanks for your help

i had one. set it at 2.5. it stopped up. took it off and it ran way better than it ever did.






-justin