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Fittings?

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Fittings?
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hex0rz
+1y
Man, anyone tell me if the fittings have to be all the way into the port? I get like a 1/4 of the way with my pliers and its real hard afterwards. Can I drive them all the way or will it be bad? I was thinking about taking a ratchet to it, but not sure. I don't want the fittings sticking so frickin' far out!

Mind you, this is brass on steel. I also wonder about the brass on brass as well.

BTW, some of my fittings have like a white hard substance on the threads, is this pipe dope?
devb22's avatar
devb22
+1y
Do not over tighten the fitting...as long as you have some sort of thread sealant you should be fine...

The white substance is most likely a thread sealant of some sort, like you said its probably pipe dope...

Brass is soft so be careful when torquing it down...

Hope this helps!
sleepyspeed's avatar
sleepyspeed
+1y
I can tell you that the white stuff on the fittings is pipe dope.

as far as fitting in the bags? On iron to iron pipe I've used thread chasers to get more thread engagement. That might work for you.
speedster93b's avatar
speedster93b
+1y
don't retap your bags to get the fitting in farther. bad idea you'll get shavings in there, and likely tap too far and it won't seal properly. NPT is a tapered fit, that's why it seals. use plummers tape and wrap it a good 5 times and do tighten it. put your ratchet on it and tighten 'er up good and tight. i promise you won't have a leak. when i say good and tight, i don't mean put it in the vice and get a god damn breaker bar on it, but don't be a pussy. don't use pliers either what are you thinking? use a 'wrench' or if space is available use your 'ratchet' not a mexican socket set, or a damn set of pliers. lol are you kidding?
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hex0rz
+1y
Dev, those fittings with the "pipe dope" are from you, lol. Its hard though, and I thought pipe dope is'nt supposed to harden?

I don't have a thread chaser, my bro might though. And I'm not trying to re-tap the fittings either. I never knew they were tapered though, lol.

I'm actually using pipe dope to seal it off, and before was opting for the loctite 565.. I'll ratchet her up good then, and not over do it!

Let me get a little more technical, adjustable rib-joint pliers, lol. I figured I did'nt need to have any more torque than the pliers gave, so eh, I came on here to make sure!
immortal1 (linn)'s avatar
immortal1 (linn)
+1y
Just a side note... Look at the paper cover on the slam bags. Mine said to use loctite 565 (or equal). I didn't have much luck with teflon tape for copper to aluminum (the bags / valves). With the loctite it sealed every time. Hope this helps.
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hex0rz
+1y
Yea, I noticed that. I wonder if pipe dope will work?
90-b22dawg [andrew]'s avatar
90-b22dawg [andrew]
+1y
i use pipe dope at work (retor seal T+2 which is white with teflon in it) on the daily but not for air.... water pressure is normally around 90 psi in a house and 120+psi before the prv (pressure regulator valve)....
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hex0rz
+1y
I got Hercules real-tuff teflon paste thread sealant. Says it is good from -200 F to +550 F. And a pressure up to 10,000 PSI.
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hambandit
+1y
blue loctite is the only way to go

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