stock motor power

I would think so,Mikey.Or just build the stock motor up using Paeco parts and not worry about an engine swap.I really have no desire to set asphalt on fire so the 2200 with mild mods is fine for me.Lol.BJ

Yea the blocka cranks & connecting rods are the same from the f2 to the f2t but i think the f2 has a compression ratio of 8.5 and the f2t's compression ratio is 7.5, i have seen dyno pulls and charts of stock internal f2t's putting down 350hp... Thats with alot of boost and u can do that b/c the compression ratio is so low..

That is a lot of hp from a 2200 block and internals.I would hate to see the results if it did grenade,especially spraying it that much.Holy Metal Parts ,Batman.Lol.BJ

a better word would be guestimate lol, with the 8v engine in the trucks, getting much more than 180-200 hp with out boost isn't gonna happen, you might push the envelope with a small shot of nos & running an fuel injection setup with standalone and be able to reach the 225 mark. even with boost on the 8v, you can only put 5lbs of chit in a 5lb bag if ya know what I mean, so with a high amount of boost, I'd say that you'd top out at 275 max which is more than likely improbable, and that is dumping serious $$ in to the engine & taking a chance at grenading it on the first dyno pull.

there are some guys that have boosted the 12v f series engines up in the neighborhood of 350+ horsepower like bagged said.... be it in the probe, 626 or mx6 12v trim, but to get this, the boost is way up there, so serious engine & boost mtgment would need to be used, along with balanced internals, and w/e other nice little speed shop tricks they could pull out of the bag!

Now for the kicker, I'd say by cryo treating a 16v engine, and the use
of all the go fast goodies & knowledge you could source, this engine
could hold together for up to 400-425 hp.

do keep in mind that when you "tinker" with one toget the max out of it, the trade off is usually that it isn't gonna hold up for a long period of time....

here is a little fyi stuff for ya.

there supposedly are no known mazda f series engines with forged internals

but there was a b family engine (bpt) that in limited production trim came with forged internals & put out @200 ponies from the factory.



What I have done to strengthen my internals is to have the whole engine (block, bearings, crank, rods, pistons, cam, valves, v-springs, & fasteners) all cryo treated, see this site for more info it cost me with shipping @ $700 to do this, and the reason I did this is
one: cryotreating will make non-forged parts like forged ones, if not stronger & less likely to deform or break or wear out.
two: you can't get a forged crank unless you know a crank mfg, and have enough $$ for them to tool up & make one
three: you can get forged rods & pistons. I only opted for the pistons since I am raising the comp ratio and needed a custom set to accomplish this and to lighten the rotating mass, with the cryo treatment, the stock rods (which are or will be shot peened & balanced) should hold up as good if not better than a forged set, and for the price of a forged set of rods @ $700, I got the whole engine treated which as explained before will benefit the whole engine, not just getting rods. now if i were building a 16v max effort engine, yeah, i'd spend the extra $$ on the forged rods just so i'd have that extra little comfort that at high rpm & boost, i wouldn't sling one out of the side of the block.
four: I'm gonna run a girdle, and am using main studs & head studs instead of bolts, also the use of a copper head gasket & o-ringing the decks should keep everything working in harmony. also lightening & balancing all of the rotational mass will cause less stress on the internals & engine as a whole, while increasing the horsepower, but be careful as too much lightening & the engines longevity will suffer.

Since the page is like a mile long, i'll quit typing now....

doesnt dropping a V8 in it sound like a much more viable option? haha

If you like having 12 MPG!

what years of mx6 motors are the same as the b22 just wandring cause my neighbor has 1 wit a bad fuel pump i could get out of the round body style (early 90s) not sure on year

at the point of deciding to engine swap rather than engine build,u have decided to go with raw hp over the -dare I say it- elegance of getting all there is to be got out of a smallish 4 cylinder.And that my friend is why we have choices.Luck any way u go and we will be here to assist.My engine swapping history goes back to flat head Fords and McGurk equipped 6 cylinder Chevys so lots of us here have seen and done it all.BJ

so back to the 2.2 motors. im about to have my assembaly ballanced but is there a such thing as aftermarket connecting rods and pistons for these motors