Weber 38 DGAS on B2000

What is that saying about biting the hand that feeds?

That barbed fitting on top close to the fuel line goes to the carcoal canister, if you gutted all your stock vacuum stuff just plug it, if you still have it all run it to where the big black line goes into the top of the canister. I suppose you could run it to the fuel return line if you don't have a canister and the vapors would try to go back to the tank. To figure out what needs to stay for the charcoal canister to work This Might Help. Your pictures show an electric choke which should be wired to the stock wiring that comes off the back of the alternator. It's pretty hard to see through the carburetor to see a vacuum port on the opposite side.

You could either:

1. Set your camera for close up shots, hold it back there and snap a few random pictures and post the best one, or

2. Spend 2 minutes to take the carb off to get some pics at a better angle. You don't have to take the bloody carb appart. All you should need is a 1 or two wrenches and a flat head skrewdriver if that.

These might also be helpful:

Weber Installation

Holley 5200 Information

You obviously didn't look into this much because if you installed a Weber 38 (an old one at that) to solve a fuel problem, that sucker is going to guzzle gas like no tomarrow, especially on a B2000. A better option would have been a Weber 32/36 or a Holley 5200.

Ok, a little clarification is needed here. The carb wasnt installed to improve the fuel economoy. As discussed in a prior thread, we were having trouble getting his truck to idle. With all the vacuum ports plugged, and swapping out the carb with another stocker, it still wouldnt idle and had other odd problems. As per several recommendations on here, we started keeping our eyes open for a weber. For about $150 Jake snagged this weber, with the baseplate adaptors.

The truck runs great now. It idles a little high, but, no effort has really been made to tune the carb. It was just a bolt it on and whoop for joy that it ran type thing. we made the throttle cable adaptor using some stock parts, and jake took it for a spin the other day. Its good to go as far as it finally running goes.

The only question were these 3 ports, which would appear to be vacuum lines of some sort (just a random guess).

In the first pic the blue arrow is pointing at the rear line. its about 3/16 inner diameter, but it has a vacuum plug on it making it tricky to see. Its definately vacuum as it has a ton of suction and idles like poop if its not capped.

The second line in question is the one russ and ken have suggested to be a fuel return line of sorts. Ill go for that as it doesnt matter one bit as to its running if its plugged or not.

The third line in question is visible in the second pic. Its to the bottom right of the electric choke, and it too has a plug on it.


Now all three of these lines are most definately on the carb, and Im not confusing them with some on the manifold.

Should the distributor's vacuum advance be hooked to the vacuum port by the choke, its currently hooked to a nipple on the manifold just in front of and to the driver side a bit of the carb?

My guess is everything will be fine if we just cap the questionable lines and move on with life, and leave this thread behind. What are your thoughts on this Ken and Russ?

Thanks for your help,
Dave

Well the vacuum advance needs to go to port vacuum on the carb which is going to be one or both of the vacuum lines you mentioned.

If you have a timing light I would just hook the advance to one port and check your timing up to 3,000 rpm, then connect it to the other and check your timing the same and see which one is closer to spec if they arn't both the same.

The other vacuum port can probably be connected to the thermal valve mounted in the bottom of the intake manifold and ran to the EGR, or it could be left capped.

Keep in mind that the B2200 has BOTH a mechanical and vacuum advance on the distributor. The mechanical partially engauges advance and then the vacuum pulls it to what it needs to be, the computer on deceleration and some other conditions will use a solenoid to change vacuum to retard the timing back to what the mechanical is.

Could be very possable that the magnetic pickup is going bad in the distributor.

on my 5200, i capped that 3/16th size port. i had no use for it. not sure what exactly it was for, but i'd like to know. it's definately not for water choke, because i have separate lines for that.

Edited: 7/17/2006 7:48:59 AM by aftershock

Edited: 7/17/2006 7:47:56 AM by aftershock



this is my holley. notice the plugged port lurking under the manual choke linkage. i can guarantee you that is the port he is talking about on his 38. the charcoal canister "would" have gone to that other plugged port to the right, which im not using.

that port that draws a lot of vaccuum seems to be pulling directly from the manifold. it's very strong, and i get the same effect in idle change when i pull a plug from one of the manifold ports that are unused. it's cracked 2 rubber plugs so far since i have started driving the truck 7months or so ago. i'd also like to know what the hell that damn thing is for lol. it's not for PCV either.

edit: it does run perfect the way it sits now. i noticed a big increase in gas mileage, from stock carb @ 21mpg city to 24-25city and 27highway. and the factory O2 sensor registers a .7 @ idle last time i put a meter to it. not sure what it's running at under load. i know the .7 is a little on the rich side, but i kind of expected it from non re-jetted carb. it's a replacement for a 2.3 pinto, and im running it in a 2.0

Originally posted by aftershock



Edited: 7/17/2006 7:48:59 AM by aftershock

Edited: 7/17/2006 7:47:56 AM by aftershock

that port that draws a lot of vaccuum seems to be pulling directly from the manifold. it's very strong, and i get the same effect in idle change when i pull a plug from one of the manifold ports that are unused. it's cracked 2 rubber plugs so far since i have started driving the truck 7months or so ago. i'd also like to know what the hell that damn thing is for lol. it's not for PCV either.

edit: it does run perfect the way it sits now. i noticed a big increase in gas mileage, from stock carb @ 21mpg city to 24-25city and 27highway. and the factory O2 sensor registers a .7 @ idle last time i put a meter to it. not sure what it's running at under load. i know the .7 is a little on the rich side, but i kind of expected it from non re-jetted carb. it's a replacement for a 2.3 pinto, and im running it in a 2.0

Hey did you have to use the weber adaptor plate for your carb ? I heard that the 5200's needed the weber adaptors, or did you just make one. You got pics of the adaptor plate ?

Thanks man

Brad

made it out of aluminum. but the weber adapter works