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Easiest way to set up rear links....
olskoolpup
+1y
Originally posted by Master Fabber
the easist trick is to take the leafs out, use a stock u bolt on the side of the frame tacked in place. this will hold the axle up, allow for pinion changes,and generally make this process much easier. hope this helps, JR
thats how i do it as well. even better if you can throw your bed back on to double check your wheel center that way it isnt cockeyed
the easist trick is to take the leafs out, use a stock u bolt on the side of the frame tacked in place. this will hold the axle up, allow for pinion changes,and generally make this process much easier. hope this helps, JR
thats how i do it as well. even better if you can throw your bed back on to double check your wheel center that way it isnt cockeyed
tenagator
+1y
jus measure good. get all ur angles use a pinion angle finder cut the stock shit out and mock it back up to ur measurments.
vinnysmini
+1y
Originally posted by Turbo32
why not just figure out you're ride height with the leafs still intack, notch you're frame, throw you're link setup on and then take the leafs off.
sounds awhole lot easyier then what you guys are talking about and the leafs will keep everything centerd and true.
We usually like to set our drive heights really low so we can drive like an inch off the ground so if you go to set up your ride height before notching the frame, then the framerails will hit the axle. And if you tack the axle in place first, you can remove the leaf springs and have more room to work with. Then you can mark up the frame to notch it. Once it's all notched you can jack up the axle to where you need it for your ride height so your linkage is set up at drive height instead of being installed at max lift.
why not just figure out you're ride height with the leafs still intack, notch you're frame, throw you're link setup on and then take the leafs off.
sounds awhole lot easyier then what you guys are talking about and the leafs will keep everything centerd and true.
We usually like to set our drive heights really low so we can drive like an inch off the ground so if you go to set up your ride height before notching the frame, then the framerails will hit the axle. And if you tack the axle in place first, you can remove the leaf springs and have more room to work with. Then you can mark up the frame to notch it. Once it's all notched you can jack up the axle to where you need it for your ride height so your linkage is set up at drive height instead of being installed at max lift.
whynotfab
+1y
Originally posted by Master Fabber
the easist trick is to take the leafs out, use a stock u bolt on the side of the frame tacked in place. this will hold the axle up, allow for pinion changes,and generally make this process much easier. hope this helps, JR
I was about to mention that.. good pics of it in one of the old Minitruckins.. the reverse 4link system done by CanDo im pretty sure.
the easist trick is to take the leafs out, use a stock u bolt on the side of the frame tacked in place. this will hold the axle up, allow for pinion changes,and generally make this process much easier. hope this helps, JR
I was about to mention that.. good pics of it in one of the old Minitruckins.. the reverse 4link system done by CanDo im pretty sure.
madmike
+1y
http://www.vord.net/cars/mgb_mods/rear_susp/rear_axle_and_propshaft_set_up.html
http://truckworld.tenmagazines.com/tenArticle.asp?aid=2606&sid=42&cat=4&sc=3
http://www.streetsourcemag.com/tech/ViewArticle.aspx?ID=5
the last one is a good one, its a reverse or 50/50 (dont do those) but all the info for set up and positioning is there
the first 2 i googled
good luck!
.
http://truckworld.tenmagazines.com/tenArticle.asp?aid=2606&sid=42&cat=4&sc=3
http://www.streetsourcemag.com/tech/ViewArticle.aspx?ID=5
the last one is a good one, its a reverse or 50/50 (dont do those) but all the info for set up and positioning is there
the first 2 i googled
good luck!
.