i own two mazdas right now and both have tha same problem. ones a auto and ones a manual. both clunk out after they get warmed up and say ur drivin and u come to a stop sign or light and all sudden it does. but starts right back up. ive been told that its tha distributor but i dont know what it is. im sure u guys know what im talkin about. one truck has 93,000 miles and tha other has over 170,000 miles. and theyt both do tha same thing.
any help wpuld be great.
Thanx N|ck
the distruibuter is worn out, the bushings inside have worn and the rotor is comin in contact with the cap most likeley, mine did the same thing and i changed the distributer to a good one and it runs awesome now...
anyone else have this problem???
could be anything- from an ignition switch to a valve in the carb. I have a good distributor with new car/rotor/wires and vacuum advance and oil oring seal. 40 bucks plus shipping
MINE DOES THAT.....nOW IT DOESNT EVEN THROW SPARK....WHATS THE PROBLEM WITH IT? hAS NEW PLUGS, WIRES, CAP, ROTOR, IGNITION SWITCH, WHAT NEXT? HELP ME!!!!
try a new coil or make sure the coil is gettin signal from the ignition switch...if not check fuses and such.....
it may have a lot to do with timing
get a volt meter from like harbour frieght,check all your electrical system.if you find a foul ,then its in your electrical path if its not its a mechanical problem,i.e. timining,carb,etc.
most times poor idle when coming to a stop is a vacuum bleed from the factory carb feedback system is stuck open. Looks like a robot exploded under the hood of a stock mazda, tubes and wires everywhere.
You can use a (unlit) propane torch to track down vacuum leaks, wave it around all those tubes and solenoids on the passenger fender and see if the idle speed picks up a bit, the hose that you are close to is the culprit.
If it is a sticking solenoid (usually a motor burns oil and thats what plugs up the lines and solenoids)the only remedy is replacement, at which point I recommend a Weber carb. No feedback needed.