K
No spark-B2200
geterdun
+1y
I have no spark. I have replaced the coil x2, the module x2, and the pickup coil (new one has same resistance as old). Wired straight to battery, rules out switch. Has anyone heard of the reluctor being "bad"?
dan woodland
+1y
So this is a B2200i?
It turns over(with or without the key)?
You have power at the coil (on the drivers side fender)?
By module you mean ECU(passenger kick panel)?
It turns over(with or without the key)?
You have power at the coil (on the drivers side fender)?
By module you mean ECU(passenger kick panel)?
geterdun
+1y
Yes, B2200, carburated.
Turns by hand, turns by key.
Wired to the battery, removes switch from equation. Coil grounded and grounded hard-wired straight to the battery, grounded well.
No, my error, distributor ignition module (twice) and distributor pickup coil (twice), and ignition coil (twice). No computer in circuit.
Resistor checks new and good.
Condenser on + coil.
About that reluctor? Do they lose the magnetism?
Turns by hand, turns by key.
Wired to the battery, removes switch from equation. Coil grounded and grounded hard-wired straight to the battery, grounded well.
No, my error, distributor ignition module (twice) and distributor pickup coil (twice), and ignition coil (twice). No computer in circuit.
Resistor checks new and good.
Condenser on + coil.
About that reluctor? Do they lose the magnetism?
mazdatweaker_2
+1y
The ignition module sends a pulse signal to the coil ground side based on reluctor posistion so you grounding the coil is taking it out of the equation. Something is wrong with you doing that.
chevellex69
+1y
Would this truck have a main relay? If so see if that's clicking. Mine wasn't and it was the ecm. But I also have a 2600i
geterdun
+1y
tweaker,
So you are saying do not ground the coil? If not, where should I run the coil ground to, the fuel pump relay yellow/blue? Doesn't that end up as ground somewhere?
So you are saying do not ground the coil? If not, where should I run the coil ground to, the fuel pump relay yellow/blue? Doesn't that end up as ground somewhere?
mazdatweaker_2
+1y
"Something" has to make / break the coil primary coil magnetic field, collapsing it and causing it to jump over into the secondary (high voltage) side. Points and a condensor used to be used to supply the ground path to charge the priumary and that job was taken over by the ignition control module. Someone with a wiring diagram could probably show you what you need to do to get a spark happening with your setup.
This has nothing to do with mounting of the coil. This has to do with the negative side of the coil, so maybe I am not understanding what you mean when you say that the coil is grounded well.
Hope this helps.
geterdun
+1y
The coil - terminal is grounded to the frame instead of connected to the y/b wire in the wiring harness which goes to the fuel pump relay. Could it be this simple?
Doesn't the reluctor break the field when it passes through the two "towers in the distributor"?
Doesn't the reluctor break the field when it passes through the two "towers in the distributor"?
geterdun
+1y
It finally hits me, the module breaks the coil circuit for the spark. the lead to the tach does ground, but that is a related, unrelated circuit.
We had a day today that was not rain nor below freezing. That seems all we have had for 2-3 weeks. Got out there in my shorts today. Put it together with only the lead from the module connected to the coil -, it hit and started, now the carb that has been on a shelf 15 years seems to demand some attention.
That will be another day, getting cool for shorts, no sun on me, rain later, of course.
We had a day today that was not rain nor below freezing. That seems all we have had for 2-3 weeks. Got out there in my shorts today. Put it together with only the lead from the module connected to the coil -, it hit and started, now the carb that has been on a shelf 15 years seems to demand some attention.
That will be another day, getting cool for shorts, no sun on me, rain later, of course.