K
fuel pump/tank/sender
huskerdually
+1y
Well it looks like I need to change the fuel pump in my son's truck, it's only pushing 44psi and the book says 64-85. I hope that fixes it's poor running.
But also the fuel gauge only shows 3/4 when full and when on empty still has 5 or so gallons in it. Is the sender one of those with the long metal wire arm? And are they only available through mazda? Neither napa or orielly's shows a fuel lever sender.
And what is the best method for changing the pump? On my dad's chevy fullsize we dropped the tank, but then on my s-10 I just pulled the bed off. I thought removing the bed was much better, which do you guys do/prefer?
But also the fuel gauge only shows 3/4 when full and when on empty still has 5 or so gallons in it. Is the sender one of those with the long metal wire arm? And are they only available through mazda? Neither napa or orielly's shows a fuel lever sender.
And what is the best method for changing the pump? On my dad's chevy fullsize we dropped the tank, but then on my s-10 I just pulled the bed off. I thought removing the bed was much better, which do you guys do/prefer?
jimbeater
+1y
is the truck carbed or fuel injected? my truck is FI
i just went through looking for a new sending unit... my lines up top were leaking, so far i have patched them up but i did order a sending unit... it was $70 (canadian $), and that was the sender only (has the fuel level gauge built in)... no pump or strainer. when it got to me, it was the sender for a carbed truck... no place for a pump on it... lol i tried before that to find one i did find some, they got pretty expensive i recall... more closer to $250... now that would be including new pump and strainer. i havent got another one yet, i will be looking again soon though. you will probably want the complete unit even though you are just going for the pump... the top lines and complete top is most likely jut like mine, rusty as hell... and once you get it off, you will want that new one. you will need all new screws.
easiest is to pull the bed. to drop the tank and try to deal with the gas lines all around (and inside the frame for some reason?). 4 - 6 bolts underside, i think 3 bolts/screws for gas filler, taillights and wiring... and some muscle from 2 guys and the bed is off. the top of the tank is right there. wd 40 the bolts a week or 2 in advance... or propane torch... and impact with deep socket makes life better. those bolt were a pain.
i just went through looking for a new sending unit... my lines up top were leaking, so far i have patched them up but i did order a sending unit... it was $70 (canadian $), and that was the sender only (has the fuel level gauge built in)... no pump or strainer. when it got to me, it was the sender for a carbed truck... no place for a pump on it... lol i tried before that to find one i did find some, they got pretty expensive i recall... more closer to $250... now that would be including new pump and strainer. i havent got another one yet, i will be looking again soon though. you will probably want the complete unit even though you are just going for the pump... the top lines and complete top is most likely jut like mine, rusty as hell... and once you get it off, you will want that new one. you will need all new screws.
easiest is to pull the bed. to drop the tank and try to deal with the gas lines all around (and inside the frame for some reason?). 4 - 6 bolts underside, i think 3 bolts/screws for gas filler, taillights and wiring... and some muscle from 2 guys and the bed is off. the top of the tank is right there. wd 40 the bolts a week or 2 in advance... or propane torch... and impact with deep socket makes life better. those bolt were a pain.
huskerdually
+1y
Oh it's fuel injected my bad. And I don't have to worry about rust, my 14 year son was able to turn his torsion bolts himself with a 3/8 ratchet. His truck is pretty cherry rust wise. How is the sender set up, I think I can probably bend the rod to adjust it to read right, I assume the resistor is still good, because there are no dead spots it just reads way off.
jimbeater
+1y
yeah from my experience and hearing others... they all read off... yes torsions are much easier to turn than the bed bolts... bed bolts are in a tough spot if you have anything but an impact gun...
give you an idea of what your looking at... i had a leak in the metal line going into the tank (a sender line), and then a connection got yanked... so i had to repair a wire connection. my bed bolts didnt move the first time i tried... i tried 2 days in a row even striped one... dont do that... very bad place to murder a bolt head... so i started to drop the tank, but couldnt see what was going on with all the lines and wiring up top... thats why i had to repair a wire... i ended up saying 'f- it!' and tried the bed bolts once more and they came out.
give you an idea of what your looking at... i had a leak in the metal line going into the tank (a sender line), and then a connection got yanked... so i had to repair a wire connection. my bed bolts didnt move the first time i tried... i tried 2 days in a row even striped one... dont do that... very bad place to murder a bolt head... so i started to drop the tank, but couldnt see what was going on with all the lines and wiring up top... thats why i had to repair a wire... i ended up saying 'f- it!' and tried the bed bolts once more and they came out.
bigamigo
+1y
this is were i got mine
had to get one when i put in my fi turbo motor got here very quick to <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->
had to get one when i put in my fi turbo motor got here very quick to <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->