scotch
+1y
Since it's turning over, the starter inhibit/interlock switch is good. So that's not a concern.
I would not have pulled the distributor since it was running fine when you shut it down. Short of a complete timing chain failure, there is nothing that could have changed with respect to timing that would cause a truck to go from running fine to a no-start after shutting it down. But now that the distributor has been out and back in.....
Are you certain you he had the timing set right when he put it back in?
Positive #1 cylinder was at TDC?
TDC on compression stroke (not exhaust)?
This sounds like the first ECM failure I ever had way back in 1995. Came back to the truck the next day and it started right up and ran a couple of hours before the same problem again. So, I would pull the ECM (behind the passenger side kick panel), pull the cover off, and check for any signs of leakage around the two big capacitors that are on the board. If the area surrounding them is not squeaky clean like the rest of the board, then they are leaking and that is likely the cause of your problems.
The only thing that is strange in your case is that you say you have air (& compression), fuel, and spark, then you should have ignition - provided the spark is delivered at the right time. Obviously you had a problem other than timing. But now that the distributor has been out and put back in, after I looked at the ECM, I would check (or re-check) the following items.
1. Make sure the timing is set properly. You need to make sure that #1 is at TDC compression before you re-install the distributor. Then make sure the two dots are aligned and that the distributor is roughly centered within the adjustment range when you re-install it. If it's a tooth off, you might not get ignition. Also, make sure that new wires were installed in the correct order. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. #1 Cylinder should be at the 9-10:00 position when viewed from driver side fender. There are many detailed threads on here showing the timing process.
2. You said that the pump is running and the injectors are firing? How did you confirm that? With a noid light? Or evidence of fuel in the cylinders and on the spark plugs? If you can get access to a fuel pressure gauge, I would check the fuel pressure. I doubt the pressure regulator failed while you were in the store, but without adequate fuel pressure, it's not gonna start.
3. Even if your fuel pressure was bad, it should have started or at least fired when you tried the starter fluid. So this leads me to believe the spark is weak or coming at the wrong time. In addition to the ECM, the spark is also controlled by the ignitor module (larger black box on the bracket with the coil.) It's an extension of the ECM. If you are getting spark, then it's probably OK. But I would keep it in mind. There is not much you can test on it.
4. Check the voltage getting through the main relay. You can check that on the black/yellow stripe wire on the green 6 terminal connector near the wiper motor. You obviously have voltage getting through but low voltage can cause you grief. With the key on, it should read the same as your battery voltage.
5. Check for codes. Ground the single green connector near the wiper motor and then turn the key to "ON", but don't try to start it. If the engine light goes out and then start blinking, count the number or long and short blinks.
6. Try unplugging the electrical connector to the Mass Air Flow sensor and try to start the truck. It's the box right after the air filter housing.