K
Cylinder head woes....
molotovman
+1y
Hi Guys! I tries to log on to MT today to find that it doesn't exist anymore, and found this site.
Here's my story, and my problem.
I have an 89 B2600I 4x4, it would get hot over the summer, burn a little coolant, and consume some oil. I figured I was in for a headgasket soon, but I got the truck for so cheap I figured I'd let it eat until it got bad. A month ago I was driving and my waterpump finally ate it(I've got 200k+ on the truck). I said to hell with it, ordered a new WP, engine gasket kit, injector rubbers, and studied up on doing a headgasket for the first time.
I pulled the head and found one bolt missing a washer, and 3 smashed valve seals on the exhaust side. I also found cyl 3 with a bit of coolant in the piston cup. I cleaned it up, pulled the rocker assy off, dropped the valves out and took it to a machine shop. The guy called me that night and told me it was cracked. I oredered a new one from Odessa on E-bay and got at it today.
I got the whole thing back together, torqued the head properly, and then tried to take off the T-stat cover to flush the coolant system and change the stat. No dice, one of the bolts was swapped for a stud, and it's stuck so I have to source one from the salvage yard.
This leaves me with an issue. I was not able to start the truck, run it to operating temp, and re-torque the head bolts. Am I going to be ok waiting a week to warm it up and re-torqe the head bolts, or will it mess up the new head-gasket since it will have sat with an initial torque all week before I can finish?
Thaks for your help!
I'd say this was a fairly easy job on this truck, I'm glad I was able to learn how to change a head on it. I'm used to rotaries!
Here's my story, and my problem.
I have an 89 B2600I 4x4, it would get hot over the summer, burn a little coolant, and consume some oil. I figured I was in for a headgasket soon, but I got the truck for so cheap I figured I'd let it eat until it got bad. A month ago I was driving and my waterpump finally ate it(I've got 200k+ on the truck). I said to hell with it, ordered a new WP, engine gasket kit, injector rubbers, and studied up on doing a headgasket for the first time.
I pulled the head and found one bolt missing a washer, and 3 smashed valve seals on the exhaust side. I also found cyl 3 with a bit of coolant in the piston cup. I cleaned it up, pulled the rocker assy off, dropped the valves out and took it to a machine shop. The guy called me that night and told me it was cracked. I oredered a new one from Odessa on E-bay and got at it today.
I got the whole thing back together, torqued the head properly, and then tried to take off the T-stat cover to flush the coolant system and change the stat. No dice, one of the bolts was swapped for a stud, and it's stuck so I have to source one from the salvage yard.
This leaves me with an issue. I was not able to start the truck, run it to operating temp, and re-torque the head bolts. Am I going to be ok waiting a week to warm it up and re-torqe the head bolts, or will it mess up the new head-gasket since it will have sat with an initial torque all week before I can finish?
Thaks for your help!
I'd say this was a fairly easy job on this truck, I'm glad I was able to learn how to change a head on it. I'm used to rotaries!
Cusser
+1y
I think you'll be fine. Break in the engine (Search here for hints for that, there are differing theories), and at about 500 - 600 miles retorque the cylinder head bolts.
molotovman
+1y
Thanks,
I also talked to a friend who works on trucks for a living, he said it would be fine to leave it as is since I blew out the head bolt holes. He told me the only reason they say to warm up and re-torque if because you can get a false torque reading if there is fluid in the head bolt holes.
sincitylocal
+1y
That's NOT the only reason.
Retorque it when you can, but don't forget to do it.
If you retorque it every 15,000-20,000 miles, you'd likely avoid another burned gasket.
Retorque it when you can, but don't forget to do it.
If you retorque it every 15,000-20,000 miles, you'd likely avoid another burned gasket.
axel breaker earl
+1y
Yes, do a re-torque after you get a few hundred miles on it......don't loosen the bolt first, just set the value on the torque wrench and tighten only!
molotovman
+1y
Man.... This truck is really bugging me! I feel like I can't win!
Today I went to the local pickapart and found 1 B2600i. It was a 93' and had a complete engine sans the MAF. I grabbed the t-stat housing, and saw it had a newer looking reman alternator, so I grabbed that too! I came home, put the whole thing back together and tried to start it. It turned over then just started getting hung up on compression cycles. I checked the timing and it ended being 180degrees out, so I fixed it and tried again. No more getting hung up, but it would not start! I could here pooping in the exhaust, and the manifold got warm, but it would not start.
I checked spark and had it, so I'm guessing it's flooded. I'll try it again tomorrow, it's too cold and dark in my driveway now.
I have not given up, but damn it; I'm frustrated!
Today I went to the local pickapart and found 1 B2600i. It was a 93' and had a complete engine sans the MAF. I grabbed the t-stat housing, and saw it had a newer looking reman alternator, so I grabbed that too! I came home, put the whole thing back together and tried to start it. It turned over then just started getting hung up on compression cycles. I checked the timing and it ended being 180degrees out, so I fixed it and tried again. No more getting hung up, but it would not start! I could here pooping in the exhaust, and the manifold got warm, but it would not start.
I checked spark and had it, so I'm guessing it's flooded. I'll try it again tomorrow, it's too cold and dark in my driveway now.
I have not given up, but damn it; I'm frustrated!
molotovman
+1y
It still won't start. I took the plugs out, dried them off, burned the fuel out of the cylinders with a lighter and tried again. No dice. I double checked my spark, I'm getting it. The plugs all come out wet so I'm getting fuel.
The only guess I have now is timing. I lined up the notch will the t and stabbed the distributor. I made sure the dimples were aligned on the distributor. The rotor was lined up with plug wire 1 after it was stabbed.
Do you fellas have any guesses?
The only guess I have now is timing. I lined up the notch will the t and stabbed the distributor. I made sure the dimples were aligned on the distributor. The rotor was lined up with plug wire 1 after it was stabbed.
Do you fellas have any guesses?
Cusser
+1y
Wait a minute - isn't the B2600i distributor the one where the rotor can actually go on the shaft three different ways???
molotovman
+1y
I'm not sure, but it doesn't matter as long as the rotor is in position at the cyl 1 electrode when the engine is at TDC right?
mzd4x4
+1y
Yes it can go on 3 ways