threads
Page 1 of 1
Mazda 2.0L \  Weber carb and Pacesetter

Weber carb and Pacesetter

Mazda 2.0L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
views 1758
replies 8
following 3
 
billysobx   +1y
I know it has been answered all over the sight but I would like to go over it again. I am currently rebuilding my 2.0 L in an 86 b2000 with 5 speed manual. I am putting a Weber carb along with Pacesetter header on it. As far as the intake manifold goes, what all will be eliminated? And does the header bolt right on or will I have to modify some things?
dan woodland   +1y
All you need after a weber swap is the four blue wires from the passenger side wiring harness for the wipers. Everything else attached to it can go.

The header should bolt right on, you may have to massage the header to clear the engine/trans connection.

I would suggest keeping the OEM carb setup unless you are having major issues. You won't gain much in the way of MPG or performance with your proposed "upgrades".
billysobx   +1y
Intake manifold? Egr valve is gone, what else,
dan woodland   +1y
Plug all the vacuum ports...

billysobx   +1y
Yep, I got that, what about the sensors, warer temp. I believe. That is for ecu right? Gone?
dan woodland   +1y
All you need to do is trace the harness on the passenger fender to all the components attached to it and remove them. You still need the water temp sensor, that signals your temp gauge unless you don't want to know if your truck is overheating.
billysobx   +1y
Yeah that it's the green one right
billysobx   +1y
Thanks again for the help, I'll post some pics when I get her in the truck
mazdaB-lazer420   +1y
So i did the weber conversion, and pacesetter swap on my 86 b2000. Weber conversion was a piece of cake. Biggest issue was making a bracket for the primary throttle return spring as they did not send one with the kit. Removing emmissions shit was also pretty straightforward. I did not remove the harness, but gutted all of the vaccum sensors and shit. Just make sure you plug off the vac ports as you remove stuff. Theres alot of them and theyre easy to miss. Installing the header i found that i didnt have enough clearance to slip the header over the exhaust studs. Had to pull two studs and reinstall them after i got the header into place. Also the angle of the extension tube that has the o2 port was off enough to not allow the header to bolt to the stock muffler tube so i had to remove it( it was all cracked and broken anyways) and have a section made and welded on to allow me to bolt the headers up to the rear piping. Plan for adding a muffler. I drove it with straight pipes for a month before i got pulled over for noise. Truck runs much better. Its been a fun project.
Page 1 of 1