threads
Page 1 of 2
Mazda 2.0L \  B2000 Blown Head Gasket

B2000 Blown Head Gasket

Mazda 2.0L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
views 4851
replies 16
following 9
 
buffalo444   +1y
Ok, my truck was pouring coolant out of the tailpipe, so I pulled the head to find out if it was the head gasket, or a cracked block or a cracked head. Here's what I found:

Got the head off, while I was at it I broke this:

thread post photo


which is supposed to have a vacuum nipple on the bottom... I broke that. it attaches to the bottom on the EGR part of the intake, I'll have to look it up.

thread post photo


that part of the oil feed passage is blown out, which just goes back to the return I think, as well as:

thread post photo


that thing, that goes in it. Looks like some sort of restrictor. So I think it wasn't getting proper oil feed to the head. I think it got enough, but not what it should.

Can anyone tell me where it blew? lol

thread post photo


I was confused at first to why it was like that and how that could cause coolant to leak.

topside:

thread post photo


Couldn't figure out how that made it leak, until I flipped it over...

thread post photo


thread post photo


Upon closer inspection it looked like the coolant forced its way through that part of the gasket material. how IDK, but it seems it did. IDK where else it could be, because their weren't any cracks visible to the naked eye, which it would need to flow that much coolant I would think.

But now I have to figure out how to time it, since I turned it over to check the cylinder walls for cracks

Help/pointers anyone?
topless   +1y
#1cyl top dead center! , timing mark on crank pulley should be lined up ! If not rotate full a
Round check again! It will line up! Put camshaft on a! All timing marks should be lined up! put timing belt on! Put distributor in with button pointing at#1 on cap ! You good to go!
mazdafvr   +1y
the cam may have 1,2,3,4 instead of a, b ,c , and d just use the #1 mark inplace of a if its numbered. cylinder # 1 is closest to the distributer and point the rotar button as close to the # 1 plug wire as u can with cam and crank lined up. jus addn alil more to what topless said. pretty easy
topless   +1y
Call if you have any problems 828,320,4759
buffalo444   +1y
Do you guys think that the head gasket was the problem with my coolant blowing out the tailpipe? I mean, its obviously blown but it wasn't a gaping hole to a coolant passage, but I guess that would explain why it didn't hydrolock maybe? it was billowing white when running. Thanks for the timing information too! What exactly am I lining up the "a" with? i did see that on my cam shaft. and what do the timing mark on the crankshaft line up with? I have never ever had to time an engine, all of my diesels are pushrod and gear driven, not OHC and belt. :/

Thanks topless!
crazy tarzan   +1y
doesn't take much of a leak to push fluid out the exhaust. Remember that your coolant system is under pressure when it's warmed up, and thus has more ability to push more fluid through the same space as a non-pressurized flow.

Mine's eating fluid too, I have to add 1qt every couple months, and I don't have any visible leaks. Probably why #4 cylinder is running bad (it leaks oil in that one too. . . and is now missing since it fouls the plug). I'll be going through this sometime soon as well.
Cusser   +1y



See these.




At the crankshaft gear, there is a little notch that lines up with the pointer at 12 o'clock position. Remember, only the crankshaft pulley needs to come off, six hex head screws, 10mm socket, not the big center bolt that's 21mm.
buffalo444   +1y
What part is that that I broke btw?
buffalo444   +1y
Anybody?
mazdafvr   +1y
its the nipple for ur #2 air control valve.