2 questions

i have an 86 b2000 and up front its resplined 4 splines cranked all the way down on new isuzu monroe shocks. my prob is the nut under the pitman arm catches the bar that goes from the front of the frame to the lower control arm on the passenger side on hard turns, can i remove that bar? ill take pix if i need too.

next my b2000 is a manual, is there a drastic difference in performance if i add a weber 32/36 and pacesetter header? lol im askin cuz my truck is slow as balls

You cant remove that bar unless you triangulate the lower control arm. There wont be a drastic difference, but there will be a small increase in power.

Another option for question #1 would be to install a spacer (say 1/2") between the LCA and the strut rod. This would give you some additional clearance but as ebline69 stated above would be the best solution.

As for question #2, you should see about a 15% - 20% increase in power with the Weber and header. Unfortunately 15-20% of damn little is STILL damn little LOL

H-m-m-m-.Lets see: 15% of 85 hp =12 hp more or less. Now u r at 97 hp which is a few more than the STOCK 2200 with FI but still 23 hp LESS than a STOCK B2600i. New Weber plus new Pacesetter plus either ur labor or someone else who really knows what they are doing is 500 pesadas at least, or about 42 pesadas for each hp gained.Not a terribly bad deal but as Linn so aptly put it "15% of not much still aint much" " Ur grannys Honda Civic will still smoke u. LMAO.BJ

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhahahaha, sorry thats just funny i dont care who ya are

thanks for the input guys lol but pleaaaase tell me ur kidding i really only have 85hp lmfao

i know... and it feels like SOOO much more doesn't it

LOL

Hello to all MazdaBscene members.

Im in the early stages of my 88 b2000 build. and im have a nightmare trying to remove the rear wheelbearing

Not sure if anyone can help me, But im trying to separate the the rear bearing from the drive shaft ,Ive removed the lock nut but that bearing just won't move. I have had it on the press but i didn't give it much more than 1/2 a ton as the bars i was using just bent . bloody drum backplate just gets in the way and makes the job so much harder. Anyway if you have any tips and was wondering if anyone has had the same problems.

Thanks to all Minitrucks that can help me

dude. this is not the way to post up your question by jacking someone elses thread. there is a new member section to introduce yourself, and there are many other sections to post up your question

besides... is this a joke? the rear axle bearing on your driveline? with the drum backplate? wtf

Yeah dude if you start a new topic on the issue are having it will get a better response. The piece you are refering to us the rear wheel bearing that is pressed on the axle. It is in the collar that bolts to the side of the axle housing and is behind the drum plate that the brake shoes mount to. I done mine recently and I had to get a transmission shop do mine with their huge press. Didn't charge me but $20. Good luck.