K
wonder what can be adapted
korrupt1
+1y
Since we all know I live in basically Hell....and not having the AC is pretty much not a option...and I KNOW I need some parts....I wonder what I can adapt out of a newer styled car to get the 134a stuff in instead....ya know...compressor, condensor(if even possible), etc....I guess i have hunting to do huh? If ya feel bored...feel free to help on the hunt.....I have found old replacement parts at JY's around...but some places are kinda far for any REAL savings and local places (autozone, checkers) have the parts but cost 2x's as much...so I was just on CL bummming around since I missed out on the wheels I was gona get and noticed a bunch of wrecked cars that are newer and started thinking...
cdrcustoms1
+1y
I have the entire heater box with ac, blower motor and stuff outta my 87... but the heater core ends are messted up and the 2 fittings for the evaporator are cut off.
mazdatweaker
+1y
****edited****
Post was last edited on May 12, 2009 12:48. Edited 1
time.
tre5
+1y
I am not sure what you are trying to say either, but I got a quote from Alternative to Dealer for $130. That was for a full charge and change from a R-12 system. They are in the North Valley around 15th Ave and Pinnacle Peak, if I remember correctly.
korrupt1
+1y
yea...I have a full AC system and it just dont blow cold.....I need to get it checked out and maybe refilled..pretty sure its leaking somewhere. Thanks Jeremy...I will look around for that place or get ahold of you to see where it is...Im dying in this heatwave lately. I was looking to see what can be swapped basically from a newer styled car...like a mazda3 or something...or even a s10 or whatever..just a thought that ran thru my head. I figured instead of paying for rims I would hold off on those and spend that on my AC instead for now...but I also just realized my heater core is completey fried...but that didnt affect my mustang AC when I had that.
tre5
+1y
I found the number for you...623-780-4901. The adress is 2010 W. Parkside #126
korrupt1
+1y
Thanks Jeremey! Will be calling them tomorrow
mike84
+1y
Wait dont do anything yet!
First, does the compressor cycle on and off? (suggesting that its just low on freon)?
The most common problem on these old trucks is that the seals dry out and allow freon to escape. If you want to check your system yourself heres what to do.
goto Autozone and borrow the triple gauge set. Its on the free loan a tool program. See what kind of pressure you have on your truck. If its at zero then it could be anything. If it has even 5 psi you in luck. That can be a slow leak.
You would have to have the system evacuated, a local AC shop can collect the R12 out of the truck. It is very harmful to the environment so dont just press the tab and let the cfcs out.
Once the truck is empty go to autozone or your local parts store pick up 2 cans a freon, and a oil charge with the dye in it. You can buy the dye kit for like 20 bucks. You will also need to buy the adapters to hook a recharge hose to your B I will take pics tomorrow. to clarify.
with the truck running, turn on the ac, pop 1 can of freon in, nothing will happen. Then pop the dye the ac clutch should kick in with this. turn the can up side down to allow more liquid rather then gas into the system. Then the last can until you its blowing cold air let the system run for a little then trace the lines.
It will probably be leaking by the upper passenger line, it has like 4 connections to the dryer there. you can buy a set of universal seals for about 4.99 and change all of them that you can stand. Then recharge the system and you have ac.
WHAT EVER YOU DO NOT BUY A REBUILT COMPRESSOR. They are a joke, the last one I bought left me in Miami driving to Mobile (700 miles) in July without ac.
If you want to convert your system to a newer compressor I would buy a compressor, lines and the dryer, condesensor but not the evaporator core thats something you buy new. Buy these parts from the junkyard making sure that the lines will connect to the correct evap core lines. build some brackets and let it be. Its a one wire connection to turn on and off the clutch, and there is a presser sensor on newer acs your going to have to by pass that.
I am not an expert but I live hot as hell alabama, and was a broke college student needing to fix the ac in both my vehicles without paying 1250-1400 to replace it.
First, does the compressor cycle on and off? (suggesting that its just low on freon)?
The most common problem on these old trucks is that the seals dry out and allow freon to escape. If you want to check your system yourself heres what to do.
goto Autozone and borrow the triple gauge set. Its on the free loan a tool program. See what kind of pressure you have on your truck. If its at zero then it could be anything. If it has even 5 psi you in luck. That can be a slow leak.
You would have to have the system evacuated, a local AC shop can collect the R12 out of the truck. It is very harmful to the environment so dont just press the tab and let the cfcs out.
Once the truck is empty go to autozone or your local parts store pick up 2 cans a freon, and a oil charge with the dye in it. You can buy the dye kit for like 20 bucks. You will also need to buy the adapters to hook a recharge hose to your B I will take pics tomorrow. to clarify.
with the truck running, turn on the ac, pop 1 can of freon in, nothing will happen. Then pop the dye the ac clutch should kick in with this. turn the can up side down to allow more liquid rather then gas into the system. Then the last can until you its blowing cold air let the system run for a little then trace the lines.
It will probably be leaking by the upper passenger line, it has like 4 connections to the dryer there. you can buy a set of universal seals for about 4.99 and change all of them that you can stand. Then recharge the system and you have ac.
WHAT EVER YOU DO NOT BUY A REBUILT COMPRESSOR. They are a joke, the last one I bought left me in Miami driving to Mobile (700 miles) in July without ac.
If you want to convert your system to a newer compressor I would buy a compressor, lines and the dryer, condesensor but not the evaporator core thats something you buy new. Buy these parts from the junkyard making sure that the lines will connect to the correct evap core lines. build some brackets and let it be. Its a one wire connection to turn on and off the clutch, and there is a presser sensor on newer acs your going to have to by pass that.
I am not an expert but I live hot as hell alabama, and was a broke college student needing to fix the ac in both my vehicles without paying 1250-1400 to replace it.
p3arlb2200
+1y
very nice and helpful mike
korrupt1
+1y
very!!!
well I had it (or more correctly the previous owner...who we will leave as moron) switched over to 134a (it has the valves and thats what the cans were) and I went to a local AC place...they pressed a valve...nothing! So I am gonna assume there is nothing in the system at all....I need to get the compressor checked still....and we will go from there.....I do appreciate all your help man....very insightful and helpful
well I had it (or more correctly the previous owner...who we will leave as moron) switched over to 134a (it has the valves and thats what the cans were) and I went to a local AC place...they pressed a valve...nothing! So I am gonna assume there is nothing in the system at all....I need to get the compressor checked still....and we will go from there.....I do appreciate all your help man....very insightful and helpful