i think im finished

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draggn97civic@hotmail.com's avatar
i think im finished
outkastdawg's avatar
outkastdawg
+1y
well guys after a sh$$y past couple of weeks i think im done with mini trucks. first a solenoid sticks and i fried a pump,now i think my head gasket is shot cause the truck is trying to heat to the point i was having to shut it off coming home and coast,and now to top it all off i hit a bump on the way home and my switch box fell locked the front up and since my batteries were weak (havent charged them since i fried the other motor) another solenoid stuck which now leaves me with no way to raise it up and i dont have th extra cash right now to order 2 new ones plus 6 new solenoids so i think its time for me to sell it and get something stock again.
sparage's avatar
sparage
+1y
Head gaskets not that bad to change. You can get some plugs and cap off your cylinders til you get the cash for the pump repairs. Maybe you just broke the spline key that connects the motor to the pump head. Don't give up yet Have you took the pumps apart yet? Oh yeah and are you losing coolant? If not is it circulating?
outkastdawg's avatar
outkastdawg
+1y
yeah i took the motor off the rear to use on the front so i know the key wasnt broke on that one and now this sounds the same way the other one did when it fried. what makes me sick is that ive only had it done about a month and a half now. plus stuff like this happens every time i get a car or truck almost like i want it. if it wasnt my daily it wouldnt be so bad but it is so now i have to take the wifes tahoe so i can get back and forth to work
mazdawg(mikey)'s avatar
mazdawg(mikey)
+1y
dude ill come help you with the head gasket and stuff. i know nothing bout juice but ill help where i can
dirtracer14's avatar
dirtracer14
+1y
Hey check the rad and the t stat. when you run the truck shut it off put your hand in the center of the rad if its cold the rad is plugged inside. Had this problem it would heat up bad put new rad after checking it and man it was good to go!
outkastdawg's avatar
outkastdawg
+1y
i dont think it is the radiator the only other thing i can think of is i removed my overflow jug when i finished cutting the fender wells out in the front and havent figured out where to relocate it under the hood. temp wise it was fine until i did that so maybe im losing my water through the tube but i dunno.
T
tre5
+1y
Don't you have a quick disconnect? Why don't you pull it when the motors start running away? I keep mine right at my feet coming out from under the seat. How many batteries are you running? How many solonoids? Let me know what you have and I will try to steer you down the right path with the hydros. I have been juicing stuff for over 10 years, and I have only had 1 runaway that I can remember. You need to make sure that you have a really good ground on those solonoids also. Snap some pics, let me see your setup.
sosatheshark's avatar
sosatheshark
+1y
dude take tre and everyones advice dont give up someties when things go wrong its actually a simpe fix ,i had juice for many years and always use a quick dissconnect,and use good seleloids ,usually selenoids go bad before anything and the splines so chheck those first and all your connections and also check inside your box make sure nothing is touching we all will help you through this
A
all22s
+1y
yeah... juice is cake to troubleshoot... solenoids are cheap also.... 6.00-8.00 each (ford starter solenoid) if you are running 4 batteries now (at 48 volts) rewire them to 24 volts... it will be a lil slower but it will conserve the battery power and work longer. usually if you are running multiple solenoids to a pump... the closest one to the batteries goes out and shorts the others. by shorting i mean stopping the flow. or it could lock and stay constatly connected.... just disconnect the first solenoid and hook up the second and see what happens.....or get a meter and check both sides of the solenoid for surrent to see which is locked. you might only need to replace 1 or 2, but not all of them.
to check them turn the meter to 200v and stick the red probe to the side stud on the solenoid closest to the batteries and the black probe to ground.. you should read whatever voltage you have wired (24,36,48 etc) then after you figure out the voltage you have move the red probe to the other side stud of the same solenoid. the meter should read 0.00 volts. if it reads any voltage whatsoever (without a switch being pressed) that solenoid is bad. remove it and check the next solenoid. the good thing about hydros is that the main things that break are easily replaced (solenoids, fluid,batteries etc)
if you can get one pump to work lift whichever end is lowered, then turn the slowdown valve closed all the way. if it leaks down then you got a leak in the line or cylinder.... you will see fluid so its easy to find the leak.
if you see a wet cylinder then go buy a cylinder rebuild kit (5-10 max at any shop... or order them from prohopper, reds, cce, etc.....they are pretty much universal. well it does depend on what cylinders you have. sone cylinders have 3 o rings some older ones only have 2. you can even go to homedepot or lowes and buy them as well.
let me know if you need any other help with it. i dont mind spreading the wealth of knowledge i have as im sure tre5 or anyone else who knows juice will be glad to help too.

jeremy
H
hybrid
+1y
ha i know how you feel man but dont give up. its no biggie just brush it off. motors are cheap and i always ran solenoid blocks when i had juice on my mazda, never had problems with them for the two years the juice was on there. once you are on juice you will never want air ride again lol