tucking 24" semis on a bodydropped dually

need some help here guys, i been searching a lot on here and looked on a bunch of old threads to try to find out whats the right answer but i haven't had any luck finding the info, is a 1992 crewcab dually stock rear axle i found a great deal on some 6 24 alcoa classic wheels with 35 series tires aprox 32" overall diameter.... tires are semi new so i plan on running them but if i have to go a bit smaller on the front i will, im trying to get most of the parts i need to build this truck...... moving on with the question because the backhalf i plan on building i really dont want to narrow the rear axle so based on that how much wider and taller do i need to go on the rear fenders in order to tuck the wheels and lay body, now the inners on the rear have been faced but not the outers.
i talked to 323duallysports about widening and raising up the fenders and they said they could make them however i want them but when i told him i wanted to go 5" wider on each side he said that sounded like is too much he said he never done anythinh wider than 3.5" or 4" on each side, however i been reading here that some people went with 4" to tuck 22's and they had to raise their fenders a couple inches in order to fit right ......

i also talked to another place that fab up rear fenders in texas duallyfendersfiberglass.com and they said he can make them to tuck 24's but there is no need to raise the fenders that they will fit at the stock height so now im confused and i feel like is a chunk of change to be getting the wrong size part thats why im posting these i was quoted $1200 at one place and $1500 at the other place. which it turned me completely off a bit but is what it is

sorry for being so long winded but any help from anybody running 24s on bagged or bodydropped rigs will be greatly appreciated....

well did a little more reading and checked out krewzlo's build and it looks like i need to widen the fenders 4.5" to 5" on each side and i need to go 3" higher,..... but on the other hand he didn't mention on his build weather he had faced/shaved all four of the rear wheels or not either way im just not sure why 323duallysports would say that 5" was too wide (?????)

anybody?.... there has to be someone out there laying body on 24's

did i put this on the wrong section of the forum? lol......

well im gonna go with 5 inches wider on each side and see how that plays out i'll update this when i get to install them since im sure someone is gonna wonder this one day and i dont mind sharing the info....

are you not wanting to do the fiberglass work yourself?

well i just never done fiberglass before i seen people do it and they claim is a pita to do it right, i seen guys do it before and i know the process but i never done it myself so i thought about getting a set already enlarged but man after the quoted me $1500 makes me want to learn..... how much can you spend on materials half of that maybe?

I run steel 16"inners so they are a but narrower than all 4 aluminum ones. Face milling only saves 3/4 per side. On a bodied truck you have to raise them. Mine runs 255/30/24's and are 30" diameter. My truck has the widebody option on it for what that is worth. Nobody really knows what the difference is... My axle is the same width as a non wb truck. If your running a 32" tall even non body dropped I would imagine you would have to raise them. As far as width, best bet would be to bolt them on amd do some measuring. Dont want to have the fenders made to find out your a half inch to narrow. I couldnt tuck the fronts either so I had to go to fleetside hubs and extend the arms 3" to tuck them perfectly. I had to raise the fender lip 2" to clear the lugs too. Was a big pain in the ass to get them to fit, but all is worth it laying body on 4's. My truck also wouldnt lay flat because the front skid plate hung down too far so instead of doing a z, i cut the skid off and raised it enough to lay flat. This in turn made the suspension travel even further and would bind the ball joints on stock arms, but with building my own arms I was able to adjust the ball joint angle just enough so they would not bind.

i appreciate the info krewzlo the 24s i have on the rears only the inners have been faced but not the outers so im thinking im gonna need to go at least 5 inches wider on each side there is someone else here tucking 24s on a bagged dually and if remember right he's running all 4 semi wheels on the rear and he went 6 inches wider on each side, thats a wide fender lol... i cant remember the name of the build/member tho but it looks good, im not worry about being street legal when it comes to how wide the track is since is not gonna be a daily ride...

i was thinking about running the stock 1 ton hubs and narrowing the arms so i can tuck the front wheels, anybody done that? im thinking maybe 1.5" to 2" each side to be able to tuck the lug nuts and maybe section/raise the front fender lip like you did. i know the turning radious may be an issue but is ok i can make a 10 point turn if i have to lol.....

Mine is just barely street legal and I don't worry about that but do worry about narrow roads and oncoming traffic. Someone cutting a corner a little too much and not seeing the fenders out that far could ruin yur day real quick. Max face milling is 3/8 per wheel so doesnt save a ton but every bit helps. I wouldnt go any wider than you have to, every but wide also makes the fender that much longer and end up being a full bedside and also overlapping the taillight. Mine are real close to covering my tailights.

I wouldnt advise narrowing your arms, you get less lift, takes more psi to lift and the steering radius will be insufficient. We already get less turning ability and then take an inch or two out of the arms and you will have more problems than just a 20 point turn. I know it sounds cheaper and easier now but when you have to redo it, it costs even more. The pivot point of narrower arms and dually rotors is way different than longer arms and fleetside rotors, you will get more "swing" if that makes sense with the dually rotor as the wheel is so much further away from the ball joint/ pivot point than with the fleetside rotors. Sotck mine had horrible bumpsteer, now it is much better. Before when turning at slow speeds at full lock it would push the tire as much as it would turn it, now it is much better. Its kind of hard to explain in words without a visual to go with it so I hope I am not confusing you. There is alot of geometry to figure in than just narrowing or lenghtening arms. One of the best parts of running fleetside rotors are they are much cheaper to replace and is much easier on the wheel bearings. Its too bad gm, ford, or dodge can't figure this out and made them with longer arms and non dually hubs but that is the cheapest way to do it so thats what they do. Also 16" wheels wont fit on the fleetside rotors due to clearance on the inside back of the wheel. But that could be solved as well with different caliper design and a little bit smaller diameter rotor, or just put 17's on stock.
Hope I haven't confused you yet.

Have u considered running a C&C axle? Should only need maybe a 2" stretch with one if your running all 4 24's.